It’s pretty obvious by now that for fall 2011 you’ll either be going ’70s or ’90s if NYFW designers have anything to say about it (thank goodness the ’80s have been retired for a while). Tory Burch and Catherine Malandrino are firmly in the 70s’ camp.
One showed lace and granny plaid and the other cool transcontinental sophistication, but the message was clear: the 70s are back, whether you like it or not. (Just the chic parts, though.)
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Tucked away in a dim room below street level in SoHo awaiting the Y-3 show, we sat on rustic benches and music from what could have been a John Wayne film blared from the speakers. We half expected to see a tumbleweed roll by, but instead we saw models properly outfitted for a journey into the wilderness.
Inspired by the idea of escape into the the hills on horseback or by foot, Yohji Yamamoto equipped his fall collection with messenger bags, hooded scarves, leg and arm warmers, short bill caps, voluminous coats and ponchos as well as plenty of neoprene pieces in case of inclement weather.
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If you’re asking, “Who the heck is Yoana Baraschi?” don’t worry–so did I. Yoana has been a designer for over 20 years, but has quietly been producing her own line for the last nine. She left Romania for Paris after completing an arts degree, and worked on collections for Cacharel, Mugler, and Facconable. She moved to New York in the ’80s and worked for some shoe designers, Guess, and then ultimately Betsey Johnson. After ten years with Betsey she took her own show on the road.
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So we’re only halfway through New York Fashion Week, but there have been enough interesting beauty looks that a recap is in order. It’s a bit early to call trends yet, but orangey lips and strong eyes (not together!) are still having a run. As far as hair, we’ve seen just as much textured, messy hair as we’ve seen middle parts with stick straight locks. And nails are all over the place, but an early prediction is slate grey and deep burgundies will rule next fall.
Click through to see our favorite beauty from NYFW so far. We’re not suggesting that all these looks are wearable, but they’re definitely cool.
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“What did I sign up for?” a model asked as she stepped out onto the ice at the rink at The Standard for Elise Øverland’s Fall 2011 show. It was a good question. She and the 10 or so other girls who modeled Øverland’s collection were escorted onto the ice in six inch platform stilettos and then had to stand on little bath mats for the next half hour in freezing temps while real life figure skaters (also wearing Øverland’s creations) twirled around them as they trembled. Because, while the collection is intended for Fall/Winter, Øverland’s cropped jackets with furry centers and cuffs were not proper outer wear for sub-zero conditions. I swear I saw tears in the eyes of one miserable looking model. When Johnny Weir, the main draw of the show, finally performed a good hour after the show was set to start, I was so cold it distracted from his lutzes and ice humping (yes, that happened). Perhaps it was Scandinavian born Øverland’s way of telling us New Yorkers to toughen up against the cold. But it didn’t work.
As hard as it was to focus on the collection with frozen digits and chattering teeth the clothes were out-there in a good way–especially on the figure skaters who looked like they were actually having a good time.
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If a rock star traveled to colonial India, what would he or she wear? At Timo Weiland’s fall presentation, we journeyed back to the 1960s where our question was answered.
For the ladies, designers Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein created rock-star worthy metallic blue tops and paired them with a jumper and then a vivid multi-colored peplum skirt. There were tiger-striped pieces as a nod to India, far out purple-tinted shades, wide-leg pants, platform pumps, and wait for it…muffs!
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Now we can finally afford a piece of The Row.
Designers Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen are teaming up with Toms shoes on a Fall 2011 collection, reports WWD. Toms + The Row will retail between $98 and $150, and will be available in plaid, herringbone, and cashmere.
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Love‘s got a new film, and we’ve got a sneak peek.
Shot by by Sølve Sundsbø, with hair by Ashley Javier, make-up by Sally Branka, and creative direction by Love editor-in-chief Katie Grand, “A Kind of Blue” features glamor model-turned-actress Kelly Brook in Giorgio Armani. (Brook, as you probably remember, covered Issue 4 of Love.) Read more »
One of the reasons we, and over 90,000 people follow Marc Jacob’s twitter handle is because his CEO Robert Duffy is behind it. And he’s sometimes quite overshare-y which makes @MarcJacobsIntl very entertaining to follow.
Only Robert Duffy has just announced, via twitter, that he’s tweeted his last tweet (this Valentine’s photo, right, is apparently just that). As for who will replace him? According to twitter, Marc Jacobs is looking to hire “someone to come on and take a job heading our twitter acct and social media.” And don’t bother sending over a cover letter and resume, they’re currently interviewing candidates over twitter by soliciting clever tweets. “Be clever. Smart. Understand our DNA. Say it in one tweet! That is your interview!” it says. They’re serious about it, too, it seems: “I just got in trouble from Robert for being arrogant in my tweets. We are being serious. This is a real opportunity.”
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450 West, the venue where Band of Outsiders staged its first-ever runway show, wasn’t set up like a movie set. But Los Angeles-based designer Scott Sternberg did pull a stunt. At the beginning of the show, with The Doors playing in the background, male models popped out of boxes suspended from the ceiling, crawling down to the runway on thick rope.
This set the stage for a hiking-inspired collection, but what it also did was make the audience ooh and ahh, biting into our lemony Momofuku cookies with the excitement of kids at the cinema. What came next were three separate runway shows. First, Band of Outsiders for men, then Boy for women, then Girl, a lower-priced line also for the ladies.
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Victoria Bartlett’s sporty urban armor has always maintained a devoted following among the fashion flock, and it’s interesting to observe how she never ventures far from the sports-bra-and-knickers look that’s earned her accolades. If it isn’t broke, after all…
There were plenty of wrapped, draped, and architecturally folded looks at today’s Pier 59 show to keep Barlett’s fans happy–and, perhaps, win her a few new followers as well. Cast in a palette of pale grey, light sand, and deep khaki, the fuzzy knits, paneled leggings, and diagonally-twisted dresses clung to the model’s forms in a way that looked body-conscious but never cheaply sexy. The “interplay of aggressive and soft” for which the designer was aiming came through via clear focus on the shoulder; zipped-up wool jackets, bandage dresses, and even soft cardigans were accented with tucks and peaks at the upper arm. Bartlett had cited a number of artists as her inspiration, from Piero Manzoni to Man Ray to Joseph Beuys, and many of these looks would qualify as bona fide works of art themselves. This was particularly true of the closing numbers–convex, wire-supported shrugs, peplum belts, and vests emphasized the torso’s angles and curves, while nude-hued latex bodysuits and tanks almost disappeared into the body.
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Call me Canadian (I am), but I’m probably going to love any collection that starts with a hockey scrimmage. Last season it was Bike Polo. This year designer Luis Fernandez had his guys suited up for some shinney, decked out in his Number Lab apparel. When the skates came off and the music dropped, that’s when it was really game on.
Fernandez has produced a vivid and well-structured collection, a look that is unapologetically sporty and fun, but still clean and European. Models came down the runway in chipper blue knits, clean cut jersey and, at one point, a grey two-button jacket with bold blue trim, but they were also sporting hockey sticks, goggles, and skis. It was as if the Swedish Winter Olympic team had descended on the West Village. You had to stop and stare, and you pointed and laughed with your friends, but you also kind of wished your boyfriend had that sweater. And those pants.
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