There’s that scene in Terminator 2 where the new Terminator first begins to reform: globules of shining mercury come together and compound until a human shape is formed. I’ve never forgotten that scene because it was the first, and one of the few, times when special effects meant anything—it wasn’t just a movement that made you go “wow,” it was a fantastical interpretation that made you question fantasy. I thought of this moment again during Jeremy Laing’s A/W 2011 presentation: the ethereal made real; the conjunction of artistry and functionality.

Derek Lam’s printed run of show opened with a quote from none other than George Balanchine, the undisputed master of fluid movement: “There are no new steps, only new combinations.” And Lam’s gorgeous showing was just the thing to jolt us to life on a snoozy Sunday morning–no bottled Frappuccinos needed. The designer’s always been a master at tailored layering, but this season, the San Francisco-born talent aimed to mix inherently dissimilar fabrics–say, silky twills with heavy wools and rough waxed furs with supersoft cashmere. All that textural juxtaposition added up to what we felt was one of the first truly stellar collections so far this Fashion Week.

Though Derek is often hailed for his clothes’ minimalist silhouettes, the sleek lines were undercut with interesting patterns, like a red-and-black “chintz tweed” on several skirts and coats that reminded us of sporty television-screen static. Continuing with the uptown athletic motif, there were also wide-legged pants paneled with leather that seemed an uber-high-end take on track pants, or perhaps a more laid-back tuxedo trouser.

There weren’t any show notes on the seats at Jill Stuart’s show, but my take is that she was feeling “forest nymph.” From the owl and fox prints to the flashes of persimmon everywhere, the whole thing had a very autumn-in-a-magic-forest vibe.

The animal prints gave way to faux fur on vests and skirts that I can only classify as a Bambi print—it looked quite fawnish. Skins were big news, and she did a fabulous drop-waist dress made of leather and suede.

Vivienne Tam is one of those old school New York designers that not only invites top editors and buyers to view her runway, but also her customers and her customer’s kids, which means yesterday’s show was jam packed.

The audience was treated to a collection inspired by both the 600-year-old Kun Opera (also known as Kunqu, or Kunju) and the Zaha Hadid-designed Guangzhou Opera House in Guangzhou, China. The first few looks consisted of subdued day wear–tweed a-line skirts, boxy jackets, sweaters embedded with Swarovski gems–transforming into evening cocktail dresses and gowns, emblazoned with trompe l’oeil appliques, lace, embroideries, and crochet. The tassels and fringe adorning several of the dresses were playful but still very grown up. Kind of like the entire collection.

**Photos by Imaxtree.

When Karlie stomped out in that elegantly tarty one-shouldered red dress, I knew the audience was in for another powerful collection from Prabal Gurung.

Moving away from the structured dresses he’s become well known for, the designer took more risks, incorporating lace, extravagantly woven knits, and dip-dyed fur in combos of white and red and white and purple.

My favorite looks were the ones that stayed true to his strong-girl aesthetic: the fitted black techno wool cloqué dress adorned with Swarovski crystalsand ostrich feathers on the chest and shoulders; the silver and ivory hand-painted silk chiffon and organza braided gown; the frilly red blouse with pink boot cut trousers and a black belt tying it all together.

One complaint: I wish Gurung would have included more day wear. Last season there was such a great mix of dramatic daytime pieces and glamorous gowns: This season, it was pretty much all glamorous gowns. And while his customer will certainly needs a few red carpet worthy garments, she surely likes to wear Prabal all day long.

**Photos by Imaxtree.

For Fall 2011, United Bamboo created a wardrobe that could last a decade. From the crisp white button up and the easy plaid sack dresses to the tweed suits and perfect platform loafers, it might be wise to spend $3,000 on this collection and never shop again.

Of course, most of us can’t do that. But we can dream. Especially about those loafers.

**All photos by Imaxtree.