Archive for February 2011

threeASFOUR RF11 1913

Imagine, if you will, a delicate yet tough neo-futuristic assassin with a penchant for accessories shaped like classical musical instruments.

OK, so officially the theme was resonance and waveforms at threeASFOUR, and there was a somber and eerie quality to the show. From the geometric patterns projected on the walls to the teeth-rattling electronic bass to the blinding spotlights, it all felt like a bit of an assault on the senses.

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Do you want to know the definition of short-sightedness? Planning a show outside in the middle of February. Yes, there are all kinds of parallels with street art, which inspired Andrew Buckler’s looks, and no, no one else is doing it, but cordoning off a section of Grand St? In February? Really?

Fortunately for Buckler, his lack of foresight in his choice of venue didn’t entirely bleed into his collection. There are some nifty pieces here, like the massive coats—one in shearling, and another in Mr Man yellow wool—but there’s also not a ton to really give us pause.

Here’s the problem with getting all “street” with your collection: the street has become a place where fashion has looked to for innovation for some time—not in terms of materials, but certainly in terms of style—and I’m not sure that the alleys and corners Buckler is mining have revealed anything authe

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Trendspotting

Trendspotting: Pretty in Pink (Hair)

Sunday, Feb 13, 2011 / 12:15 PM


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Greg Lauren wants to know if you’re man enough to wear a jacket with ribbons on it.

An LA-based artist and the nephew of Ralph Lauren, Greg made the move from art to fashion rather, ahem, seamlessly. Last year at an exhibition he showed paper sculptures of classic menswear like military looks, tuxedos, and yes, superhero costumes. Growing up in the family he did, it’s no wonder that Greg has had menswear on the mind.

He started turning his paper sculptures into real garments made from canvas and drop cloths from his studio. People started asking him where they could get the pieces, and the collection took off.

I stopped by to meet the designer at Barneys, where his collection is available now. The word that comes to mind immediately when you see Greg’s clothes is “deconstructed” or alternatively, “moth-eaten.” But look more closely and there are some genius elements there.

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We already know Blake Lively is a Louboutin girl. Now the red sole maestro has gone and designed a pair of heels in her name. But guess what? “The Blake” is pretty damn ugly. We’re sure Lively will pull them off gracefully, but we’re not fans.

Would you wear these guys?

She might hail from sunny California, but you wouldn’t know it from scoping out Kimberly Ovitz‘s clothes–the designer’s best known for her dark, interestingly draped jersey dresses. But in addition to the minimalist, monochromatic pieces her fans know and love, Ovitz’s fall collection incorporated hits of neon yellow and bright blue that lent a certain sporty-chic appeal to the looks on display. These pieces were inspired by the architecture and spirit of Brasilia, and it showed in their sculptural silhouettes, innovative cutouts, and eye-popping hues.

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Patricia Field, who is not known for subtlety in her styling or personal sartorial choices, threw a Disco Valentine’s Ball Friday night at Capitale in NYC. To get everyone in the mood for Valentine’s Day, she invited her fabulous friends to come in costume, preferably red.

Drag queens, lots of T&A, and a fair amount of Harajuku-esque dressing set the scene–this was not about tasteful fashion. Trojan was one of the sponsors, so you can only imagine what sort of debauchery was encouraged. The costume contest winners–for “Sexiest Couple,” “Sexiest Single,” and “Best Costume” were awarded trophies and a $4,000 shopping spree.

Patricia Field hired go-go dancers to entertain and get the crowd in the mood. She also dressed them–we spotted metallic snake skin bras, transparent harem pants, shiny pasties, and thongs–lots of thongs.

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In between shows, writing, and sleeping, it’s necessary to inject a bit of silliness into Fashion Week. Fiji Water sponsored the Bumbys at the tents on Friday evening, so I went to meet them. The Bumbys are a Brooklyn-based performance art duo–called Jill and Gill–who offer you “a fair and honest appraisal of your appearance.” They do so wordlessly and in disguise, typing earnestly on a typewriter and handing you an index card at the end with their pronunciation.

When I arrived at Lincoln Center, the Bumbys were mobbed. I suppose there probably isn’t a more confident group of dressers than those who attend fashion shows, so it makes sense. I was convinced to get an appraisal, so I walked intrepidly up to their table.
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My generation, which is also Alexander Wang‘s generation, is very sentimental about the ’90s. We were teenagers back then, which means my first real fashion statement was a plaid baby doll dress, and the first fashion collection that directly influenced my style was Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis. So I get Alex Wang‘s obsession with the ’90s.

When it comes to his Fall 2011 reflection on the era, there was some good, some bad, and some boring. Instead of focusing on the grunge of 1992, Wang looked more to Tom Ford at Gucci for inspiration. No, there weren’t satin suits, but there were satin, sparkly skinny pants in pink, purple, and grey. There were also satin skirts cut up like streamers below the knee, paired with matching mohair sweaters in champagne and pale pink. Add on some furry stripper shoes–very Carrie Bradshaw circa 1998–and a satin poncho fit for Gwyneth Paltrow in her Brad Pitt days, and you’ve got a quintessentially late-’90s wardrobe. (His use of Swarovski crystals in the pants felt naturally ’90s, too, and not in a bad way.)

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When it comes to accessories, it doesn’t get much cooler than Dana Lorenz’s Fallon jewels and Taylor Tomasi-Hill.

So naturally, we’re dying over Fallon‘s vibrant fall campaign styled by the Marie Claire editor/street style icon.

In the editorial-style photographs by Sharif Hamza, model Jana K wears an array of the latest FALLON baubles–cuffs galore and egyptian-style necklaces, piled onto her arms and around her neck in true Tomasi-Hill fashion.

Click through to browse the campaign.

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Honor designer Giovanna Randall burst onto the New York fashion scene in a big way. The med school dropout just showed her second collection and her first ever runway show–but when Alexa Chung is sitting front row, you know you’re making the right kind of buzz.

And the collection lived up to the hype. We were already big fans of Honor’s ultra feminine and dreamy aesthetic after her first presentation last season, and her fall 2011 collection confirmed our love. It was elegant and thoughtful and luxe with a ’70s vibe that wasn’t overbearing. Pants were flowy and wide-legged, paired with tunic tops with a thick belt. Long sleeved column dresses that were cinched at the waist billowed as the models walked (my personal favorite). Even though most looks were paired with adorable Repetto oxfords or patent loafers, the clothes made each already tall and thin model look taller and thinner. In fact, the skirts that hit just above the ankle looked even chicer because they were paired with flats. The color palette shifted in blocks from muted in putties and black at the start to a shock of raspberry on printed tent minidresses with deep pockets followed by rich emerald on a coat and in chiffon dresses to finish the show.

When I spoke with Randall after the show to ask how she felt she said she could sum up her feelings about the show in three words: “A fucking miracle.”

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