Archive for February 2011

The mood at Whit‘s Fall 2011 presentation at the Ross Bleckner studio in Chelsea was decidedly playful–the studio was bright and airy, models on pedestals were framed by Bleckner’s abstract colorful paintings and made good on the instructions they were given to be “fun and loose,” dancing in place on their blocks.

The mood follows designer Whitney Pozgay’s inspiration for the collection, which she told us was “the grown-up version of playing dress up in your grandmother’s closet when you were a little girl.” Pozgay was taken with the way that “a little girl playing dress up mixes and matches in such an interesting way that it often looks more refreshing than the way it was supposed to be” (hence the Tavi inspiration).

As for the actual pieces in the collection, they looked like the ultimate finds from grandma’s closet: a brown full mid-calf length skirt with a bird print (there’s the Hitchcock inspiration), a printed sand-washed silk top paired with thick wool trash-bag top pants, faux fur collared hefty winter coats with big brown leather buttons. To cement that “grandma’s closet” feel, models wore cat-eye frames and jewelry from Pozgay’s real life grandmother. And it looked like grandpa’s closet got raided too as delicate bird-print rompers and twisted skirts and shift dresses were paired with oversized grandpa sweaters.

Read more »

If fashion shows function as brand statements then Rebecca Minkoff ended hers with five exclamation marks. And that’s even before the clothes came out. As the lights rose in the Theater, Sean Lennon and girlfriend, Charlotte Kemp, gave a stirring performance which continued throughout the show. Tough act to follow; but Minkoff did with loose chiffon skirts, sheer leggings and over sized sweaters which fell carelessly off the shoulder. Some standouts include an asymmetrical wrap with fur accents and a sexy, structured trench. These are clothes for the city girl who is perpetually running for a taxi and who never does the “walk of shame,” but the strut of satisfaction.

Read more »

I don’t envy Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, the designers of Rag and Bone. What do you do when heritage, your thing, is the trend of the moment? And then isn’t. Last season, their approach was to out-heritage everyone, with masses of chambray and denim, in what felt like the closeted football player on Glee constantly targeting the gay kids for abuse, aka, the lady protesting a little too much. Their solution for next fall is to go British. “English gamekeepers, stalking in Scotland and the Duke of Windsor. Exemplary demonstration of how to dress like an Englishman” read their press materials.

Read more »

In the midst of this week’s shows there are some truly interesting conversations going on at Milk Studios. I’ve been fortunate enough to sit in on two of them.

Thursday night, it was the Proenza Schouler talk at the IFB conference. Design duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez sat down with the Business of Fashion‘s Imran Amed to discuss The Web. (As in bloggers, e-commerce, and viral campaigns.)

Read more »

Peter Som‘s imaginary muse is undeniably a wealthy, uptown lady. But unlike her St. John-suit-wearing lunch companion, she prefers a messy bouffant, purple lipstick, and a pair of lime green kitten heels. Oh, and she listens to Erasure.

We like Peter Som’s girl. Mostly because she’s a character. A character we’d be inclined to switch places with for a day.

Read more »

Derek Blasberg accompanied this tweetpic with this tweet: “The only things to know about our baby shower for @TheLSD: seven months pregnant she’s still sample size, and THIS [link to creepy cake with baby doll].” That is all. Happy fashion week people.

In the world of fashion, there is a definitely distinction between designers who design for girls, and designers who design for women. In real life, women obviously wear clothes designed for “girls” and vice versa. Yet for some reason when you see a collection, you know if the designer had a girl in mind or a woman. And it doesn’t necessarily have to do with age or price point, but rather an attitude. Francisco Costa, for example, designs for a woman. Anna Sui, a girl. Narciso Rodriguez, a woman. Proenza Schouler, a girl. It’s all about whether or not your garments evoke youth, regardless of who is wearing them.

Despite their differences, the collections of Katie Ermilio, Misha Nonoo, and Nahm all fall into the girl category for us.

Read more »

On Thursday night, The Ace Hotel got to feel cool when GQ took it over for a party celebrating the nominees of their fourth annual Best New Menswear Designer, which they award in conjuction with the CFDA. The nominees included Kirk Miller (of Miller’s Oath), Patrick Ervell, Riviera Club’s Derek Buse, Joe Sadler and Greg Ullery, Alex Wang for T, Michael Bastian for Gant, and Rick Klotz, the mad genius behind Warriors of Radness.

Alexander Wang was announced the winner this afternoon. He was chosen by a panel that includes Tommy Hilfiger, GQ editor-in-chief Jim Nelson, creative director Jim Moore, and others, and will receive $50,000 and a contract to collaborate with Dockers (last year it was Levi’s, a match made in heaven for Billy Reid, who took home the prize).

Read more »

“Delicate” and “exquisite” are two adjectives that often find themselves in the same sentence as “Jason Wu’s designs.” Let’s add “opulent” to describe his A/W 2011 collection, which featured no less than 15 different kinds of lace, gilding, Swarovski crystals, and models with gold leaf painted onto their hair.

Read more »

Turns out Lindsay Lohan can move product–just not her own.

When Lohan showed up to court (again) this past Wednesday, this time to plead not guilty to grand theft charges that she stole a $2,500 necklace, she did so in a Kimberly Ovitz skin-tight white mini dress. We never thought we’d be comparing Lindsay Lohan to Michelle Obama, but just as Mrs. O has proven she can move merch (at J.Crew or White House Black Market or H&M), the Kimberly Ovitz “Glavis Albino” dress Lohan wore, which retails for $575, is selling like hot cakes (and is sold out most places).

According to ABC News, the dress has sold out everywhere online, and the NY Post is reporting that Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Marcus have sold out as well. And despite a release we just got from Starworks’ VIP placement trumpeting Amy Adams wearing Kimberly Ovitz, an Ovitz rep told the Post that “Kimberly had no role in Lindsay Lohan wearing the dress.” Starworks told us Amy Adams was their first placement for Ovitz.

Despite the insta-success Lohan has brought Ovitz, she doesn’t seem to have had the same effect with her own line of leggings and apparel.

Read more »

A trip to Sydney inspired his spring show, but for fall, the idea of a trip was enough to spark Raul Melgoza’s creativity—no frequent flier miles or Airborne needed.

Luca Luca’s creative director envisioned a woman bounding through the woods, shedding layers, and switching fabrics as she went. A muse in motion robbed the collection of an anchored, singular station, and yes, the result was a bit cohesion challenged. But while Melgoza’s looks jumped from rock to rock instead of gliding in subtle gradients, two firm roots tethered the journey: accentuated waistlines and saturated colors.

Read more »

Rachel Comey might be a New York-based indie designer, but her schoolmarm look is decided European.

Whether it’s because of the limited-quantity fabrics she uses, or the odd-yet-refined silhouettes she prefers, Comey’s collection sits more comfortably alongside Vanessa Bruno and Isabel Marant than it does her American peers.

This theory rang true at yesterday’s runway show, where Comey showed matchy-matchy tops and bottoms, matchy-matchy bottoms and shoes, and baby-bell high water pants that are sure to set the tone for autumn. We were particularly drawn to her brownish rose corduroy swing skirt cut on a bias, matched with a corduroy blazer. Even Comey’s version of the Catholic school girl uniform comes off as more “teacher” than “student.”

Read more »