MILAN–The theme of Moschino‘s show this morning was “the fashionable crowd,” and from the looks of the label’s invitation–a pink flip book featuring a silhouette of a girl overrun by roses–I predicted the collection was bound to be overtly feminine and flower-y. Feminine, it was–full of flowers, it was not.
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MILAN–The Prada show began an hour late. (Apparently there was a problem with the models; several were replaced at the last minute, according to a catwalker in my hotel elevator.) But for the first time in my life, I brought a book to a runway show, so I honestly didn’t notice how long it was taking until Leah texted me, saying, “Has it really not started yet?”
But really, who cares how long it took? All frustrations were put aside when Miuccia Prada sent out her first look: A black coat dress with a blush fur collar, topped with an aviator cap.
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MILAN–Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce always put on a rollicking show for their D&G range, and Fall 2011 was no different.
This season, they took inspiration from the early Nineties. Madonna’s “Vogue” (mixed with Duck Sauce’s “Barbra Streisand”) blared over the loudspeakers–even the usually stoic Vanessa Friedman (fashion editor at the Financial Times) tapped her foot and bobbed her head to the music.
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MILAN–The Fendi show this morning wasn’t exactly pretty, but it wasn’t ugly, either. Although Karl Lagerfeld would never be so common as to name Grey Gardens as a reference, it did feel something like “Edie Beale goes to Rome.”
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Less than two weeks after showing their fall collection at Milk, Vena Cava’s Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai took center stage at the fashion week hub once again as part of Fashion Group International and consultant Karen Harvey’s panel on entrepreneurship. The Vena Cava girls, along with Rent the Runway co-founders Jennifer Hyman and Jennifer Fleiss, and Opening Ceremony‘s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, came together to share their own “How I’m Making It” stories.
The editors, designers, and consultants who circled back to Milk to hear them speak last night were well-rewarded, not with swag or a tote bag or any of the other requisite fashion event handouts, but with proof that while Milan may be the center of fashion news this week, these determined and ambitious New Yorkers have a lot of knowledge to drop if you’re looking to make your way in the fashion industry. Like how to find a factory, how to tap your customer base as an invaluable (and free!) resource, and why you should trust your gut instincts.
The take-home lessons:
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MILAN–So yes. Katie Holmes sat front row at Max Mara this morning. So did the New Yorker‘s David Remnick. Why was he there? Well, who really knows. It could have something to do with advertising. It could have something to do with a friend. It could have something to do with neither of those things.
But really, it was a good show for a high brow journalist to take in. Remnick surely imagines New Yorker readers wearing this kind of ultra-luxe, ultra-discreet clothing. (Sigh. We all have our ideal reader….) But I didn’t have too much time to ponder what he was thinking, given the desirability of the looks being presented on the runway.
Read more »McCOLLOUGH: The whole reason why we even picked that name in the first place was that when we started, Barneys had just bought our collection and we didn’t have a name. We thought, Hernandez McCollough? Doesn’t sound so high end, does it?
HERNANDEZ: Proenza Schouler is better. I actually regret it.
McCOLLOUGH: Yeah. One of our biggest regrets is the name of our company.
–Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez explain how they became the Häagen-Dazs of the fashion world to Chloe Sevigny in this month’s Interview.
MILAN–It’s difficult to find up-and-coming talent in Milan. Believe us, we’re not knocking the city’s fashion industry–it’s storied and established–but incubating young and burgeoning designers is not part of their current M.O.
But that may be changing. Swarovski, the company that combs the earth searching for talented artists who are passionate about using the Austrian brand’s materials, has found a gem in Francesco Scognamiglio. The Italian designer is definitely not a newcomer–he worked with Versace for most of the ’90s, launched his couture label in 2000, and has been putting out ready-to-wear since 2001. But it wasn’t until Lady Gaga wore a cape specially made by Scognamiglio that his name was heard loudly in international fashion.
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You need to try the hair bungee. At least this is the conclusion I’ve come to in the last few months as this tiny piece of elastic has slowly made its way into my consciousness.
A few months ago, a hair bungee arrived in my monthly Birchbox sample box. It looks exactly like a little bungee cord, complete with two metal hooks on the ends. I played with it briefly, but my hair is layered and not really long enough for a ponytail, so I passed it to a friend who looked at it in confusion and thanked me. I’m sure it’s floating around somewhere in the bottom of her handbag right now.
Then during NYFW I went to a panel sponsored by Pantene featuring the Cushnie et Ochs designers Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs discussing the intersection of beauty and fashion with celebrity hair guru Danilo (you know you’re a guru when you can go by one name). Anyway, he used 60+ hair bungees on the models for the Fall 2011 Cushnie et Ochs show.
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Name: Connie Wang
Age: 24
Occupation: Global Editor at Refinery29.com
What are you wearing? A Vena Cava tee, a vintage flannel, silk trousers from Wilfred by Aritzia, Born boots, a Theory jacket, Madewell purse, and a hat from Lauren Moffatt.
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Since its emergence in the mid-twentieth century, the leather jacket has been immortalized by everyone from Marlon Brando in The Wild One to Arnold Schwarzenegger in The Terminator and Keanu Reaves in The Matrix.
Every leather jacket tells its own story, but whatever style you go for, it will be iconic in its own way. Whether you go for a biker jacket or a bomber jacket, you know you’re getting a timeless piece of clothing, worthy of a place in any man’s wardrobe.
AllSaints has an excellent range of leather jackets. You just need to choose the look you want…
Military styling is everywhere at the moment, and leather jackets are no exception. AllSaints’ ‘Rein’ leather jacket takes the battlefield aesthetic and reimagines it for the high street. Fully-lined with military details, internal waist draw-cord, throat strap and sprayed and chipped metalwork straight from the front line, this jacket is made using a two tone lamb skin that has been heavily washed, crushed and hand-burnished. Military-style leather jackets look ridiculously good worn over layered tops and trousers tucked into gnarled leather boots. Accessorize with a cotton scarf and plenty of attitude.
Since Irving Schott designed the ‘Perfecto’ in 1928, leather biker jackets have come to embody a kind of counter-cultural swagger that fashionistas can’t get enough of. AllSaints’ ‘Recluse’ is a slim-fitting leather biker jacket with asymmetric front zip and contrast flannel body-lining, garment-dyed with heavily burnished edges and seams, and a crush finish. This is hard to beat if you want a jacket that sets you apart from the crowd.
We all know good leather jackets improve with age, but if you don’t want to wait years for that worn look, don’t worry. AllSaints have got the distressed, weathered look just right. The ‘Caledonian’ leather jacket with its asymmetric front zip and funnel collar, garment- washed with a crush finish, is seasoned yet edgy all at once. Combine it with worn leather boots and a vintage T-shirt to do it justice. And remember, worn leather also looks great over knitwear.
You can see the full range on the AllSaints website: www.allsaints.com
1. Is Tyra talking faster than normal? And does this remind anyone of her short-lived stint on Fresh Prince? We’ve also got to give Tyra credit for her spot on and hilarious imitations of Top Model contestants. To wit: “My favorite designer is Hello Kitty,” “I am Angora Nylandra Tafatia Michaels,” and my favorite, “I’m not a cookie cutter, I cut the cookies, and I’ll cut you.”
2. Plus size is now “fiercely real”–got it?
3. What happened to all the rejects who thought they’d been selected as finalists?
4. Jaclyn has more of a baby voice than a baby face, no? I like her hair.
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