LONDON–Knitwear is a natural fit for fall collections, and Pringle parlayed its heritage into a show full of pieces you’ll yearn to cuddle up in come the cold snaps of ’11-12.

Skirts resembling blankets draped around the hips, and a leather dress laser-cut with a fine Fair Isle pattern, stayed with us through the day. Also smart was a petrol blue silk blouse with cape-like panelling that fluttered around the arms.

Later, at the Savoy ballroom for Paul Smith‘s show, it was all about menswear for the girls. Cropped suit trousers, laceless brogues, prefect ties, fashion glasses and mannish blazers were sensual with sheer silk blouses. Wearers will cherish the quiet, special detailing, like the contrasting felt-backed collars and purple satin piping on a pair of gray trouser’s pockets.

LONDON–Michael van der Ham started his show by spilling a Skittles bag of candy-colored crushed velvet dresses onto his A/W ’11 catwalk. All were asymmetric, with one dolman or bell-shaped arm and the other sleeveless or short. Flirty with opaque black tights and heels, they easily could have gone home on the backs of any number of editors in the front rows.

From these confections, Van Der Ham transitioned to velvet tops and wide silk trousers in the same hue. All featured velvet panels or baby frills on the waistbands (texture blocking alert!).

LONDON–How would Mark Fast follow up his fringe spectacular from last season? With the introduction of new materials and volume, it seems. The young Canadian designer kicked things off with a cloudy-day-gray coat with massive, football pad-like shoulders, showcasing his new use of Merino wool alongside all the elastane.

He tried leather for the first time too, in mac-style dresses with hoods, drawstring waists, back-cutouts and extra-long straitjacket sleeves. More S&M than sensual, they did little to accentuate his models’ curves in the mode of his signature spiderweb knit dresses.

LONDON–In a fury of skirts and schoolyard angst, the show was over.

Meadham Kirchhoff sent 24 looks flying down the catwalk en masse in a sharply choreographed show with real intensity.

The corps of models amassed in the venue’s backlit arches before powering down the runway. On reaching the end, individuals peeled off and stepped in a crisp-cornered formation around the sets.

The result was a visual feast that felt more akin to performance art or a major Broadway production than a typical fashion show. But the convention-breaking format did make it difficult to really take anything in.

LONDON–Talk about texture blocking. In one of the final shows of London Fashion Week, Emilio de la Morena may have proved he is the king, using rectangular patches of shimmering fabric, tulle styled like macrame, and netted knits to give his fashion a distinct, squared-off look.

My personal preference leans towards de la Morena‘s spring collection, filled with sweet eyelet-punched leathers in Easter colors. But in terms of salability, fall wins. The stretchy pieces are more forgiving and, frankly, sexier. Particularly in noir colors like black, rouge, and eggplant.