Archive for February 2011

As soon as Paris Fashion Week comes to an end, we begin our annual countdown to the most important night in fashion–the Costume Institute Gala at The Met. This year, the big night will be even more special than usual as the fashion community celebrates the genius work of the sorely missed Alexander McQueen.

Anna Wintour and Samantha Cameron unveiled images and details of the upcoming Costume Institute exhibition, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty this morning in London, Vogue UK is reporting. Stella McCartney, a friend of McQueen, as well as his successor, Sarah Burton will co-chair this year’s event held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

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LONDON–Christopher Bailey is an optimist. “I don’t think it’s been a negative time in fashion!” he exclaimed to a reporter after yesterday’s lovely Burberry Prorsum show. By the time I got my chance to ask him a few questions, I already had a clear idea of his vision for Fall 2011: Early 1960s Burberry adverts starring Jean Shrimpton, and the weather. Those two references translated to a modern, cocoon-like silhouette and a finale that included clear–black patent leather piped–rain capes and “snow” falling from the rafters. (The first row’s heads were covered in the confetti, including Anna Wintour’s.)

What is it with Brits and the weather? “I think because it’s so changeable. I called my mum yesterday and she said that it was snowing in Yorkshire, which is only three hours away,” he told me enthusiastically, as if it was the first question he’d been asked all day. “Here, it was kind of bright sunshine and somewhere else it’s rainy. It changes so much that I think it’s something that we’ve become obsessed about.”

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We’ve heard this one before: this season will be Stefano Pilati’s last collection for YSL. The latest rumor comes from Kenzo’s twitter (via Racked): “Just heard BIG news about this being a certain designer at an established French house’s last season and being replaced by someone major!! CEO has just left and now the designer replaced by someone who has moved away from fashion design the last couple of yrs but stayed in fashion.”

There’s no question the tweet implicates Stefano Pilati and YSL–YSL’s CEO Valerie Hermann left her post last week. And while previous rumors that Pilati–whose tenure at YSL has been rocky to say the least–was on the outs at YSL were quashed when it was revealed that he’d recently signed a three year contract with the house, perhaps there’s some truth to this latest rumor?

As for who will replace him, our money’s on Raf Simons, or, more in line with Kenzo’s tweet (which have now been taken down, btw), Hedi Slimane.

A brief argument for each:

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LONDON–There’s been a trend this season which everyone’s calling “texture blocking.” Like Alexander Wang and Peter Pilotto, Erdem used this technique, but it was more about the fusing of two fabrics than blocking.

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The controversy over First Lady Michelle Obama’s McQueen dress just won’t die. Now Diane von Furstenberg, one of the original naysayers to have criticized the First Lady for wearing a foreign designer to the China state dinner, seems to be having second thoughts about her original statement.

Von Furstenberg, speaking as the president of the CFDA, issued a statement after Michelle Obama wore that now-infamous red dress (an altered look from Sarah Burton’s resort collection for McQueen), in which she expressed her “disappointment” over the First Lady’s choice: “CFDA believes in promoting American fashion. Our First Lady Michelle Obama has been wonderful at promoting our designers, so we were surprised and a little disappointed not to be represented for this major state dinner,” the statement read. Of course, she was in good company, as Oscar de la Renta had already expressed his outrage over Mrs. O’s dress choice, and WWD followed suit.

But now the designer and CFDA pres seems to be having second thoughts.

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LONDON–And best bash of LFW (so far, and yes, slight intoxication may tint our estimation) goes to the Love magazine for Alexander Wang party at Liberty.

Daisy Lowe was there, dancing up a storm in a Mark Fast crop top and pencil skirt. When Beth Ditto forgot the lyrics during her a capella version of “I Will Always Love You,” she called on none other than Alexa Chung to complete the phrase.

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LONDON–That no fashion show had ever been mounted at the British Museum now seems like an oversight, thanks to Alice Temperley’s theatrical production.

For her brand’s 10th anniversary, Temperley brought a collection about grown-up glamour to the London landmark’s soaring atrium.

The color palette was restricted to champagne, black, silver, and eventually, some Fire and Ice red (the Dorian Leigh version). A fan-skirted evening gown nodded at Victoriana and lingerie through an oversized, black-and-white lace print on champagne satin, with a pair of elbow-length leather gloves keeping it young.

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Designers David Koma and Holly Fulton showed together for the second season in a row as part of Topshop’s New Gen series, and they really are the perfect runway mates. Mostly because their collections are vastly different.

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LONDON–As much as I’d like to ignore Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos‘ program notes about Fall 2011′s “army of youthful revolutionaries” and simply talk about how the clothes looked, I can’t. Just a post ago, I made the argument that fashion is art, so why shouldn’t this team’s art be taken as seriously as what’s on right now at the Tate?

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Ever since Emmanuelle Alt was named as Carine Roitfeld’s successor at Vogue Paris, there’s been much speculation as to what Alt would do with the revered mag.

Early on Gisele Bündchen was confirmed as Alt’s first cover, shot by Inez and Vinoodh in St. Barth’s, but what would she wear? We thought perhaps Balenciaga, as a way put an end to the bad blood between Vogue Paris and the iconic French brand that existed during Carine’s reign. Others thought Balmain or Isabel Marant were shoe-ins because of Alt’s previous position as stylist to those two houses. (Jobs she gave up for her new gig as Editor-in-Chief.)

Today, however, the mystery is over, as Alt confirmed to Vogue UK that the cover would feature Gisele wearing Dolce & Gabbana.

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LONDON–Tom Ford appointments were yesterday and today, but don’t expect to hear anything about the presentation from the journalists, fashion editors, and stylists who attended.

All attendees were asked to sign a non-disclosure agreement that requires them not to write or reveal anything about the collection until the summer. As fall collections usually hit stores in late June/early July, expect profiles on Ford in the May/June issues of your favorite magazines.

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LONDON–Pete Burns perched at the end of the next row, a man with a face full of piercings gave interviews to cameras behind us, and Boy George rocked up at the last moment, latex-clad companion in tow. Must be the Vivienne Westwood Red Label show….

This season, the Dame pitched her circus in the cathedral-like Royal Courts of Justice. The lofty setting called for anarchic fashion on a grand scale, and Westwood delivered. Her beauty alone included hair trained into crown headpieces, smeary, slept-on clown makeup; and one leprotic-looking gold-leafed face. If Topshop took its inspiration from 101 Dalmations, it was Westwood’s models who got Cruella’s eyebrows—or at least one each.

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