A lady sitting near me at Proenza Schouler–you know this lady, she’s very important in fashion circles–said nonchallantly to her acquaintance, “There are only two New York shows that I’m really ever that excited about: Proenza Schouler and Rodarte.” Her friend quietly agreed. While we’re not that jaded, there is something about both labels, designed by young twenty-somethings of the same sex–one pair happens to be sisters, the other, friends–that makes their runways more significant than really anything else happening at New York Fashion Week.
Of course, there’s the cool factor–tonight Jen Brill, Terry Richardson, Liv Tyler, and Chloe Sevigny were all front row–but it’s also about talent.
For Fall 2011, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough gave their girl plenty to desire, starting with a wool jacquard pant, black double faced wool jacket and wax leather top that we’d undoubtedly pre-order if it was on Moda Operandi. The hip suiting–another set of colorful jacquard pants, an orange wax leather top that looked more like silk from a few feet away–transformed into dresses soon enough, including a black and mustard wool shift patched together in pieces on a bias. More graphic jacquards–they kind of looked like Tetris–were next, including a few cocktail dresses with molded peplums that were less flouncy than most. A group of knit sweat suits pleased the crowd, as did a little black dress in panne velvet. (By dulling the fabric, the panne technique makes velvet more palatable.)
The shoes were colorful and spikey, and while we had to go on to ProenzaSchouler.com this evening to view the jacquard PS1, we predict many more covetable accessories will emerge soon enough.
As the crowd headed out–either to the after party or to our homes and offices to write–there was an energy rarely felt on the second-to-last day of New York Fashion Week. Proenza Schouler’s clothes made us feel like we could take on the world.
**Photos by Imaxtree.