Richard Nicoll called out the 1920s and sport as Fall 2011 inspirations, and you could see those references in his silhouettes–dropped waists, baseball jackets, raglans, and drawstrings. But there’s an elegance to Nicoll’s clothes that only fine silk crepes and satins–cut with the utmost rigor–can confer. The high neckline was quite directional–we’re bound to see more dresses and blouses move upward. And the trains–cut at sharp, 90 degree angles–brought a discipline to the style not seen on other runways.

The most obvious use of Swarovski crystals had to be the mock necks that were emblazoned with the words “euxoa,” “alcis,” and “acronicta,” the Latin terms for different moth genuses.

We preferred the last three dresses, cut in a sharp, ’90s style and covered in what looked like dark teal paillettes.

There is so much fresh talent in London, but Nicoll stands out for being both professional and innovative. Cerruti, where he has served as creative director for the past two years, recently decided to close its women’s division. We hope another firm recognizes his talent and scoops him–and maybe even his burgeoning brand–up.

**Photos by Imaxtree.