It’s pretty obvious by now that for fall 2011 you’ll either be going ’70s or ’90s if NYFW designers have anything to say about it (thank goodness the ’80s have been retired for a while). Tory Burch and Catherine Malandrino are firmly in the 70s’ camp.
One showed lace and granny plaid and the other cool transcontinental sophistication, but the message was clear: the 70s are back, whether you like it or not. (Just the chic parts, though.)
Tory Burch: Tory did what Tory does so well–suits, dresses, and separates in all her signature shapes (like tunics). What was new was some playing with proportion; bold, nerdy plaids; and a heavy hand with the embellishments. The 70s influence was obvious, but not blatant, much like in her Spring 2011 collection.
While I did not love the heavy, sacklike tweed pieces, I was totally into the blouses with big neck bows. There’s something so rakish yet chic about that look, especially when tucked into slouchy trousers. The big brown plaid was great on a crisp suit, but got a little busy when Tory trimmed it with tan leather at the placket and curly shearling on the sleeves. Loved the oversize shearling vests; hated the lace tunics edged with way too many black sequins. Cream tops and skirts done in the same cream lace were gorgeous–they didn’t need any additions to make a statement. Hard core Toristas will find everything they need here–they will just have to work a little harder to make it all work together.
Malandrino: Catherine Malandrino didn’t have an elaborate backstory for her collection this season. It was simply who she is: Paris meets New York, and what that woman wears. Her 70s girl has dreams of hanging with Halston.
High waisted trousers in a multi-colored houndstooth pattern and pimpy (in a good way) chinchilla pieces and floppy chapeaus mixed with emerald, electric blue, and ruby jackets and dresses. Malandrino always does some elaborate leather cut-out garments, and there were several dresses sporting this signature of hers. Big statement necklaces with pearl, crystal, and enamel kept the collection firmly in this decade. A cropped ruby red jacket with leather trim was a standout and I kept drifting back to stare at it.
So no surprises from these two ladies, but the rich fabrics and colors made me long for fall. But not disco.
**All photos by Imaxtree. Tory Burch set first.