Archive for March 2011

PARIS–There was a bit of Jackie O. in Giambattista Valli‘s Fall 2011 collection, presented today at the Couvent de Cordeliers–if only Jackie O. would dare to wear streaks of neon yellow across the bottom of her thick shift dresses, exaggerated peter pan collars, and skirts in shaggy fur. Maybe it was a collection better suited for her younger sister, Lee Radziwill, who attended the show.

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PARIS–Often, a Yohji Yamamoto show is a serious discourse on the nature and the mechanics of fashion: cutting, draping, shapes and volumes. Sometimes it’s a complex illustration of fashion’s history. But at last night’s show, Mr. Yamamoto did none of that, even if there was a cage hoop skirt worn with a blood red wool and silk puffed sleeve coat, a red corset-wrapped dress, red hand-knit pantyhose, and red patent leather boots.

A long-sleeved, sheer chiffon, black and white eye pattern dress with a slide slit was worn over a layer of black fishnet and black combat boots. A white leaf-printed dress in black sheer chiffon was worn over white stockings. A black velvet coat was paired with a silk corset top, lace bodysuit, and a cut-out cage skirt. The rigid, circular frames of the skirt highlighted the juxtaposition of the hard and soft elements of this highly erotic collection, based on the notion of how a woman wears lingerie.

The hard-soft idea played out in the velvet fabric of a slit dress and a coat falling and draping over ridges of the cage skirt’s skeleton. There were several outstanding large lapel wool overcoats toward the end of the show for customers at the stores, but great too was the red and black multiple-layered chiffon and tulle dress with a red bra–a look uncharacteristic of the designer’s signature.

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Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.

PARIS–The email invitation from the John Galliano’s office simply said that there would be a presentation between the hours of 5 and 6pm on Sunday afternoon at the posh Avenue Foch mansion. But fashion is always full of surprises, and upon arriving at said manor, the first floor along the corridors around the grand staircase was lined with café style tables and chairs. In the two main rooms were red velvet imperial style couches, marble statues, floral silk velvet cushions thrown here and there surrounded by potted flower plants, and several grand crystal chandeliers hanging low from the ceiling. Reduced in scale but not in temperament, Mr. Galliano would have been proud of the efforts his team has managed.

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Boy Model Andrej Pejic Would Get A Sex Change For Victoria’s Secret: While backstage at the Gaultier show, a ballsy (haha) Hilary Alexander asked male model Andrej Pejic if he would consider a sex change. “Yes, if I was offered a Victoria’s Secret contract. You’d have to, wouldn’t you.” Probably. Watch the fascinating interview with this boy wonder. {HuffPo}

Hermés Likens LVMH’s Actions To Rape: The CEO of Hermés, Patrick Thomas, said of LVMH’s advances on Hermés: “If you want to seduce a beautiful woman, you don’t start by raping her from behind.” Yikes. {WWD, subscription required}

Bieber Is Growing A ‘Stache: Bieber tweeted this over the weekend: “im not shaving for a month so you all can see my mustache. i’m pumped.” So are we, Justin. So are we. {Us Weekly}

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Inspirational super-stylist Alex White is one of the best in the business–her whimsical and eye-popping editorials are what make W a hit magazine–so when I heard she was blogging, I almost leapt out of my seat.

White’s blog, titled “Alex White Edits,” is a new feature on the W website that will showcase White’s creative process as well as snapshots and notes from her travels. So far the blog details a visit to see Tabitha Simmons’ new shoe collection, some shots of pre-fall, an extensive behind the scenes look at the Nina Ricci AW11 show that White styles, and the most alluring Polaroids and sketches from White’s “Against Nature” editorial that ran in W‘s March 2011 issue.

The behind the scenes work of a stylist is usually unseen by the majority of fashion followers, which is why White’s blog is such a great addition to online fashion culture. But read with caution–it’s just the thing to make you want quit your day job and start working 24/7 for a stylist.

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PARIS–”I was not inspired at all at the beginning,” said Caroline Seikaly before her fall 2011 “showtation.” The Lebanese-American designer, whose resume includes a degree from RISD and stints with Isaac Mizrahi and Karl Lagerfeld had a baby the day after she showed her last collection. “So I was baby, baby, baby and I just got blocked,” she said.

She ended up finding inspiration in her immediate environment: the Hedi Slimane men’s pants she likes to wear and the music she was listening to–Brandon Flowers, Vanessa Paradis and David Bowie (hence the title of her collection, “Star Dust”). As a result, Seikaly’s fall collection has a menswear, 70s, Studio 54 vibe.

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Central Saint Martins‘ masters program is arguably the most prestigious fashion course in the world. So Kanye West, rapper and fashion obsessive, has reportedly pulled a James Franco and applied. The UK’s Sun says that West flew into London last week to meet with the head of the program, Louise Wilson.

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Blake Lively was in Paris over the weekend for the much-touted Chanel dinner celebrating her Mademoiselle handbag campaign for the house. The first ad, which will start running this week, is above. If you didn’t know it was Blake, you almost wouldn’t know it was Blake, save for the small telltale birthmark next to her nose. Karl, who photographed her for the campaign, did a good job of making her look sleek and and sophisticated, and squelching a bit of that uber-happy California persona she has. It’s quite a lovely image, especially the reddish highlights in her hair which echo the red of the adorable Mademoiselle bag.

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Forget about Hermes for a minute. LVMH just a bought a company whose family actually wanted to sell.

The French conglomerate has acquired a 51% stake in Bulgari SpA, whose founding family owned a majority of the firm’s shares up until yesterday. That stake translates to about $3.4 billion. While this gives the family less control over what happens at the company, they have gained two seats on the LVMH board of directors. What’s more, Bulgari’s CEO, Francesco Trapani, will take over management of LVMH‘s entire jewelry and watch division in the second half of 2011.

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From the weekend emerged more crazy designer gossip.

According to Eric Wilson at the New York Times, Hannah MacGibbon is likely to be exiting Chloe after this season. The label, which is owned by Richemont, is said to have already interviewed candidates for the job. We hope this isn’t true, mostly because we really like MacGibbon‘s work.

But back to that other little situation. Sources inside the house of Dior tell Fashionista that the rumor within the company goes like this: Riccardo Tisci is most definitely in, and Carine Roitfeld will serve as the label’s stylist. Roitfeld was most recently linked to Hedi Slimane’s rumored takeover of YSL, although the Stefano Pilati-directed label’s expertly placed piece in the Times seems to have muffled those whispers.

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PARIS–Confession: I didn’t see Pedro Lourenço‘s show in person. Chalk it up to being a Paris Fashion Week rookie–I took the metro to the wrong venue and then got slammed in horrible traffic when I tried to take a taxi to the correct location (thinking a cab would be faster–I was wrong). As I pulled up to the Ecole Des Beaux Arts I saw Susie Lau leaving. “I missed it!?” I yelled stepping out of my cab. “Yeah, sorry,” she said, looking actually a little sorry for me, because, she added, “It was really an amazing show.”

I was disappointed to have missed Pedro Lourenço’s fall collection as I wanted to see the boy wonder who wowed the critics last season in Paris in action (though I guess he’s not a teenager anymore, having just turned 20). Last season his collection was all leather–intricate work that was impressive to see but perhaps not as practical to buy and to wear. Lauren predicted this season Lourenço would veer more commercial–and he did. He dropped the leather obsession and went softer, using wool and fur on primary colored long sleeved dresses, skinny pants and knit tops, all done in mod-ish patterns. Looking at the photos, I’m even more peeved I missed the show. Tant pis.

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