Archive for March 2011

PARIS–Like Lauren last season, I had a hell of a time getting to the Tennis Club de Paris for Céline’s fall 2011 show. I’m pretty sure I’m the only show-goer who took three different metros and then pleaded with a cab driver to take me the rest of the way–which he only agreed to do after I paid him double and showed him the directions with Google maps on my phone.

But it’s Phoebe Philo! The designer Lauren calls “the closest thing our generation will have to Coco Chanel.” Her Céline girl is the girl everyone wants to look like. So a girl does what she’s gotta do. And good thing, too, because Philo’s fall collection for Céline was sleek perfection.

The runway inside the cavernous indoor court was made of glossy parquet flooring inlaid with marble tiles. The looks—sharp pared down calf-length coats, some with trench paneling at the shoulders and ties at the waist, others with thin lapels done in leather fastened to look double-breasted, paired with skinny pants and leather racing stripes—reflected the sleek floor.

After the show, Philo told the Telegraph‘s Hilary Alexander that she was inspired by the interiors of cars, that she loves driving and “find[s] women in cars very seductive.” She also included several images of women at the wheel–whether a luxury car from the ’70s or a scooter–in her “trend book” of images handed out to attendees. Indeed, as in the interior of a (very fine) car there was plenty of soft leather worked into coats, pants, and drop waist dresses.

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PARIS–Growing up in Paris, Cacharel was what mothers bought their daughters to ensure they’d behave on a first date and appear like respectable young women. Preppy, French, below the knee.

Things have changed. Cédric Charlier is now in charge and the French designer, who previously worked at Céline and Lanvin, has given the house a successful makeover since his arrival in March 2009.

His neon-chic collection last season was a hit at the most exclusive beaches and cafés this summer and you can assured that the clothes he presented yesterday afternoon are going to fill elegant Parisian art openings this coming fall/winter.

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London’s Sunday Times is reporting that Kate Middleton will wed in Alexander McQueen on April 29.

Middleton will also have some input regarding the design of the dress. Sources tell the Telegraph “the design of the dress [will] be a combination of Miss Middleton’s own ideas and Mrs Burton’s quirky interpretation of high fashion.” The paper also reports that Sarah Burton was “chosen for the discretion afforded by her relatively low profile, as well as for her alternative take on elegance.”

The Sunday Times, the first outlet to report that McQueen had landed the coveted job of designing Middlton’s wedding dress, is sticking to their story despite the fact that McQueen’s camp has denied the report to CNN. As for Prince William’s office, they told CNN “We’re saying nothing.”

Though McQueen has to deny the report, even if it’s true.

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PARIS–The photo pit at l’Espace Ephemere in the Tuileries, impatient with the delay at Viktor and Rolf, began singing, shouting, whistling (there was some raising of middle fingers, too)–anything to spur the lights to dim and the show to start. As if to answer the photogs’ lewd taunts in kind, a draw bridge lowered, angry militaristic music began pumping through the tent, and red-faced models marched down the runway. It was a little scary.

I would not want to do battle against Viktor and Rolf’s army of lady warriors. Their armor–leather or stiff chiffon-plated dresses with shoulders that were exaggerated or cut out completely, high collars, and sharply pleated skirts–looked impenetrable and almost reptilian. Black stockings had blood red seams running up the back and the voice against the percussive soundtrack pleaded “hurt” over and over. I don’t know who will wear this stuff (maybe Daisy Lowe, La Roux or Leigh Lezark, all of whom sat front row??) but I do not want to mess with them.

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PARIS–In every one of Haider Ackermann’s shows, the soundtrack is key: he pays as much importance to the music as to the silence between the notes. His catwalks frequently kick off to no more than the noise of models’ heels echoing on the floor, as this one did. It’s a melodic reflection of his style: he often begins by a pared down, understated silhouette, building into a slow crescendo of tailoring, intricacy and unveiling of the female figure.

Last season, Haider Ackermann introduced some bright splashes of color onto his usually somber designs; at the end of the catwalk, the Belgian designer told us the Ackermann girl was “ready to come out of the shadow.”

The season, Haider’s femininity is out of the shadows indeed, and standing in the spotlight: the collection, shown yesterday in Paris’s Palais de Tokyo, comprised of a multitude of rich tones–there were deep teals, white and cream, silver silk and burgundy leather (ok, he’s not quite into neon shades either, but we did spot some glitter).

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“I have no ugly friends, I dress like a meth-ed out Musketeer and I’ve got a mustache that whispers ‘I’m a bad person!’”

–Taran Killam as John Galliano on Charlie Sheen’s (played by Bill Hader) talk show, Duh! Winning!, the opening skit on SNL last night.

PARIS–For those of you who don’t know Maroussia Rebecq aka Andrea Crews, she is what Christopher Kane is to England-–except she shows in a city where, unlike London, experimentation is rare and often frowned upon (trust me on that one, I grew up in Paris, and anything but black received a cold sneer).

Her brand is also an art collective: not only does the designer and her team make clothes mostly out of recycled garments, but they also have frequent, wild performances all over town. By now, Maroussia’s shows are known to be the most eccentric and humorous of Paris Fashion Week.

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PARIS–Last men’s fashion week, Gaspard Yurkievich was a no-show as his company was going through major restructuring. When we saw him a few weeks ago, he promised he’d make it up to us during Ready-to-Wear–and he did.

Yesterday afternoon, in a series of boudoirs at Christie’s, male and female models confidently marched down his catwalk in looks that confirmed the Yurkievich we know is back indeed. His collection held the same balance of retro lines, impeccable tailoring and shameless bling–demonstrating, as always, a perfect knowledge of fashion history (he teaches in several Parisian universities), and a flare for old school glamor.

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“When a woman smiles, then her dress should smile too,” goes the famous quote by Madeleine Vionnet, the inventor of the bias cut. But a beautiful dress can make its wearer smile too, and Rodolfo Paglialunga’s fall collection for Vionnet should do just that for anyone lucky enough to wear one of his creations for the French label. (Increasingly, it’s celebrities on the red carpet who flash a smile in their Vionnets–remember that incredible little black dress Emma Watson wore on her Harry Potter press tour?)

For fall 2011, Vionnet presented its collection on stairs covered in a magic-eye-like pattern of lillies in black and white–a print found on several dresses in the collection, though in glorious technicolor. Electric blue was paired with bright orange, red with lavender. Loosely woven crochet skirts were paired with knit tops, belted with carefully folded obis. Quilted sleeves and a quilted wrap dress added to the textural mix, as did dresses and skirts in stripes of crochet knit alternating with sheer. And a shimmering electric blue lace dress with black paneling on the sides made me break out into a full on toothy grin.

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Mood Board

March Mood Board

Saturday, Mar 5, 2011 / 1:00 PM

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Vivienne Westwood titled her fall 2011 collection for her Gold label, “World Wide Woman.” “Fashion is global, influence comes from everywhere in the world,” read the line sheet. “You can wear anything in our part of the world. Anything goes.” And when Vivienne Westwood says “anything goes,” she means it.

Models walked down a glittering gold runway in boots covered in gold paillettes so that their feet nearly blended into the catwalk. Drawing your eye up from the pretty glitter of the runway came as a bit of a bit of a shock: models’ faces were painted white and smudged messily and heavily with black over their eyes, noses and mouths like they were extras at Marilyn Manson’s “Dope Show.”

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Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.

PARIS–When the lights dimmed on this bright sunny Friday afternoon inside a black tent erected on the courtyard of the Musée Rodin, there wasn’t the customary loud music and a model already posed at the end of the runway ready for action. Instead, Sidney Toledano, the CEO of Christian Dior, came on the stage to give a speech in French.

With elegant but somber words that somehow felt more emotional in French than a translation would allow, Mr. Toledano summarized the “painful” events of the past few days that shook the fashion world in a rapid and unforeseen manner. As readers of this site are undoubtedly aware, Dior fired its designer John Galliano for anti-semetic remarks at a bar against a French couple and in an undated camera phone recording that surfaced last Monday in a London tabloid, sold for personal profit by an anonymous individual to the Sun tabloid.

“The heart of the house of Dior, which beats remain unseen, is made up of its team and studios, of its seamtresses and craftsmen, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the values and vision of Monsieur Dior. Ce que vous allez voir maintenant, le résultat de leur immense travail. What you are seeing now, the result of their immense work.”

With these words, Mr. Toledano yielded the stage–a backdrop reproduction of the grey wall offices at the Avenue Montaigne headquarters–and Karlie Kloss emerged from behind the faux salon doors wearing a large brown cape draping over her cropped leather jacket, purple sweater, and midnight blue velvet pants neatly tucked into thigh high leather boots. Ms. Kloss led the show with her cape flowing in the air. This time her moves were tempered by the soft and un-melodramatic music, her make-up nude rather than painted like some figurines.

With 63 looks, the clothes certainly took center stage: there was Coco Rocha in a gray short sleeve double breasted flare jacket and a red print dress; Vlada Roslyakova in red tiered layers of ruffles; Lee Hye Jung in a khaki cotton layered dress; Iris Egbers in a sensible green plaid jacket over a short printed dress. Surely the men and women from the studios and ateliers who created these garments and who took a bow on stage at the end of the show should be proud of their accomplishments and their meticulous work in making these outfits.

Yet despite the dazzling choices of clothes, designer fashion requires an imaginative narrative without which even the most elaborately constructed garments are just mere clothes that in a few months’ time we will forget. Over his 14 years at Dior, Mr. Galliano provides us with that precise plot season after season, like a bedtime story taking us away from the utter banality and mundane business of fashion.

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