PARIS–The set for Alber Elbaz’s fall 2011 collection for Lanvin was a big old gnarled southern live oak covered in Spanish moss and hung with fog–its thick knotted roots seemed to suggest the importance of tradition, of staying rooted within the label’s history. It set the tone for the serious, moody collection that followed.

Severe yet elegant silhouettes opened the show–cape-like tops over simple skirts and boxy cashmere coat-dresses with zipper pocket details were paired with oversized gaucho-style hats. Elbaz added a touch of hardware, too, affixing heavy metal embellishments to the front of LBDs. Color–red, mustard, fuchsia, navy (there was a black and white rose print,too)–was introduced towards the end of the show on beautiful cocktail dresses with Lanvin’s signature volume about the sleeves and shoulders, nipped and twisted at the waist. A collection that proves, once again, Elbaz is at the top of his game.

And even though we heard that Riccardo Tisci would replace Galliano at Dior (and Haider Ackermann would take over at Givenchy), apparently there was some chatter that Elbaz was up for the spot, too.

As the lights dimmed and the music started, flowing dark woolen pieces trailed behind ornately plumed models fitted into robust jackets and pants. They projected the primal strength of a contemporary woman conquering the elements with fierce elegance. Fashion is and always has been about survival, after all.

It’s clear that Ann Demeulemeester’s aesthetic is “edgy.” That certainly hasn’t changed this season, evident in the collection’s spectacular theatrics.