Archive for March 2011

“Take thee to a nunnery,” Hamlet said to Ophelia in William Shakespeare’s famous play.

That’s what Rick Owens seemed to be telling Hanne Gaby as she walked down with a knitted hood covering most of her head. She wore a cape, black on the outside, white on the inside, thrown back over her shoulders, a mid-calf skirt and platforms.

The rest of the girls came marching down in what is now known as a distinctively Rick Owens’s look: long layer upon long layer, deconstructed tops and platform – and the recurring pairing of wool and leather.

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SHIRLEY EPHRAIM FINE EARTH JEWELRY™, designed by artist and jewelry designer Shirley Ephraim, is an intricately crafted collection of handmade jewelry inspired by the artistry of ancient hand weaving and lace making techniques. Most recently Ephraim designed a special capsule collection for Donna Karan, “SHIRLEY EPHRAIM for Donna Karan” which was featured in the Donna Karan Spring 2011 runway show and is currently sold in Donna Karan stores in the U.S. and UK. Ephraim’s jewelry has also had on-screen success in feature films such as the 2009 Oscar nominated film, The Visitor, and independent film, DARE, starring Emmy Rossum. Pieces from SHIRLEY EPHRAIM FINE EARTH JEWELRY™ are currently featured in CHRISTIE’S 2011 Green Auction, A Bid to Save the Earth.

SHIRLEY EPHRAIM FINE EARTH JEWELRY™ is seeking self-motivated, and highly organized interns to being immediately. Great opportunity to learn the ropes of building a luxury brand as you will be working directly with the artist and designer.

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One of our most astute commenters brought up the issue of John Galliano‘s team in the studio and the atelier at Dior and his namesake label. Will they all be let go? Will most of them be spared? And while we’re at it, will the John Galliano label continue at all?

We decided to ask some Paris fashion industry vets for insight.

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Courtney Love Pays $430k For Dissing Designer: Courtney Love will be paying dearly for ranting on Twitter about Dawn Simorangkir (aka the “Boudoir Queen”), who accused Courtney of ruining her business as a result. Courtney’ll be making payments through 2014. Courtney’s lawyer “doesn’t think she’s using Twitter” anymore. Smart. {The Hollywood Reporter}

Riccardo Tisci Collaborates With Visionaire On Its 60th Issue: Tisci curates the entire issue, which features a never-before-seen Robert Mapplethorpe photo, Carine Roitfeld shot by Karl Lagerfeld, and something with Helmut Lang, though Tisci didn’t say what. The theme is religion, and if fashion is your religion, this will be an issue not to miss. It will be out in June for a mere $425. {Style.com}

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PARIS–Manish Arora was recently chosen as Paco Rabanne’s next head designer–and this made us look for hints of his new designs throughout namesake collection’s catwalk.

“When I designed this collection I didn’t know about Paco Rabanne,” Manish told us minutes after the show, “but I think the timing is right. This collection is for a woman, not a girl. She is still having fun, but is more sophisticated.”

Indeed, the designer known for his wild runways and colorful embroideries showed new signs of maturity. Sure, the catwalk kicked off with a magician who made a model appear in a box, but the silhouettes were body-conscious–like a teenage girl growing into adulthood and learning to dress for her figure.

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“It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be…. So now, more than ever, we must publicly re-commit to the values of the House of Dior.” –An excerpt from Christian Dior CEO Sidney Toledano’s speech at today’s runway show, regarding the house’s dismissal of John Galliano. Via WWD.

PARIS–Mutant chic is definitely back.

As if they had just emerged from the sea, models drenched in aqua, blue, dark greens, and ocean tones, wrapped in crocodile skin and fish scale patterns (highly un-kosher if you ask me) marched down, or rather undulated down Zac Posen‘s fall 2011 catwalk.

These mutants were boldly, if not aggressively female: high waists, shameless cleavage and bootylicious dresses and pants. In a nutshell, imagine a teeny tiny Crystal Renn in a black crêpe plunge neck dress, Jourdan Dunn in a floor length, red carpet-worthy deconstructed gown, and Coco Rocha in a bold, skin-tight wool dress fit for Mad Men. Famous faces with hourglass figures. (At first sight a good, liberating look, moving away from the waif-chic of the early oughts–except that if Zac’s dresses manage to give Karlie Kloss a plump bottom, I’ll look more like Babar the Elephant in them.)

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Up until this morning, every major news outlet was reporting that Sunday’s runway show for John Galliano‘s namesake collection would indeed go on.

But now the disgraced designer’s press office is saying that the catwalk has been downgraded to a presentation.

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Every runway show ends the same way: all the models walk the finale and then the designer emerges, waves, and darts off. After Balmain‘s fall 2011 show, there was an awkward silence as the label’s creative director, Cristophe Decarnin, failed to appear. Buyers and editors sat in their seats as the lights came up instead of making a beeline for the door. The question on everyone’s mind: Where was Cristophe Decarnin?

According to WWD, “the designer was absent under doctor’s orders, after having recently been released from the hospital, where he was said to have been treated for depression. A Balmain spokesman said Decarnin was involved in the design.”

The news of Decarnin’s absence due, reportedly, to depression shouldn’t completely overshadow the clothes that came down the runway.

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For the fur-loving fashionista who fears PETA’s red paint, Guy Laroche‘s Marcel Marongiu has the perfect solution: red fur.

Sheared fur dresses, skirts, tops, and coats, in red, white, black, and putty, capped off with a couple of gorgeous silver beaded dresses were the highlights of Marongiu’s fall collection for Laroche. For the most part, the collection was comprised of perfectly wearable separates: leather skirts and pants, wool-and-sheared-fur overcoats, and wide-buckle belts over simple sheaths. At times it looked a bit pre-Theyskens Theory though (and some ripped knits of a pom-pom sweater variety veered into grunge grandma territory), until the luxe fur looks–I swooned over the red fur dress–stepped it up a notch. Marongiu made fur almost (almost) seem minimalist. And that’s a good thing.

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