There’s no doubt Brood designer Serkan Sarier is beloved by the fashion crowd. With past gigs at Emanuel Ungaro, Giambattista Valli and Haider Ackermann, the Antwerp grad also happens to call Vera Wang a friend. Indeed, we witnessed Wang running around at last week’s Brood presentation in Chelsea, asking an assistant to snap pictures of her amongst the dresses. We spotted plenty of other luminaries, too, including Wang creative director Michelle Kessler.
Yet Sarier, who was born in Germany to Turkish parents, has the chops to back up his buzz. Not only did Barneys New York pick up Spring 2011–his first collection–but fall’s showing was even stronger. The blend of autumnal colors and couture-inspired shapes makes Brood Fall 2011 a can’t-miss.
We recently caught up with Sarier to discuss the fall collection.
Fashionista: This was your second presentation. How has the collection evolved from last season?
Serkan Sarier: I very much consider the point where I left off when moving forward. This season I considered where the shapes and volume that people wear today come from and how those could be interpreted through a couture approach. And in terms of color: For the first season of Brood I referred to the sun’s effect on color, this Fall’s collection was how moonlight reflects color.
We loved the fabric you used in the dresses. What is it exactly, and why did you choose it?
Thank you. The fabric is a shot taffeta that was traditionally used for the underpinnings in couture pieces. Here it’s washed and then strengthened with individual trapunto stitching–a process I learned about while with Monsieur Ungaro.
You do mostly dresses. Do you think you’ll move into separates eventually?
As I mentioned earlier, my work at Brood evolves, as do the processes. This season actually had separate pieces– whether they were jackets or vests–that were incorporated into some silhouettes. Through a system of utility zippers and other hardware, the wearer can change the overall look depending on their preferences.
What’s your motivation behind showing off-calendar?
It was by chance really. For my first outing, there was just no available space during New York Fashion Week so I was left with no choice. Turned out to be a great time for those invited to make it, so am figuring it’s okay for now.
You’ve got some friends in high places. Do you ask friends like Vera Wang for advice?
Vera’s a really good friend who not only has an extremely modern viewpoint on fashion but is very quick. Any advice she has to give me, I gladly absorb it. During the process for Brood though I do keep it very personal, not discussing outside of those who help me until it’s been presented.
We hear you shipped trees in from upstate New York for the presentation set. How did that come about?
The tree trunks were from [an eco-friendly] birch tree farm upstate. They are being used for a barn my friend is building. I borrowed them and had to take them down and haul all of them back up there the next day!
What are your plans for the summer?
The thing I’m most looking forward to is seeing my family! I cannot wait! Then as Brood is shown in NYC, it’s back to work!
Click through for a tour of Brood Fall 2011.