The first thing you noticed was the set–a steaming hot high school gym in NoLita, and a stage filled with reaper-like mannequins dressed head-to-toe in safety orange–almost a life size diorama. “I wanted to do something site specific so that when you went in you were kind of transported to when you were younger,” Chloë Sevigny told us after the lights went down at her first-ever runway show for the collection she designs with Opening Ceremony. “There was an empty stage and I said, ‘We have to do some sort of tableau.’ My friend Charlie Wing is an artist who hasn’t showed yet in New York, and I’m so inspired by him. He loved the gator print. I just wanted something for people to look at.”
But besides the backdrop, there were clothes to see, and they were very cute. We especially liked the eyelet work on some of the tops and dresses, the cut-out shoulders on a few of the blouses, and the teardrop pearl detailing on everything from loafers to sky high sandals. There was lots of lipstick red–I think I counted three or four different styles of skirts in the popular color–but of course Chloë made it cool, with either a slightly skanky top or a buttoned up denim collar.
One noticeable change from last season was the move from dresses-only to plenty of separates. (There’s even swimwear–a first for the collection.) “I love dresses, they’re really easy, but we wanted to do something different,” said the designer. Whatever her reasoning behind this installment of the ultra-successful collaboration, it’s obvious Sevigny and Opening Ceremony are confident about its future. (Especially if they were willing to plunk down the money to put on a runway show.)
Friend Tara Subkoff sat front row, in a CS x OC polka dot frock, near the designer’s mother and brother (Paul Sevigny). We imagine it was a little bit like Chloë Sevigny’s high school graduation, but now the world’s her stage.
**Photos by Greg Kessler.