Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.
PARIS–Soft and romantic are never words used to describe a Comme des Garçons show, which often requires intensive focus to understand the complicated creative process behind the seemingly difficult to wear clothes. But those words precisely describe the collection designer Rei Kawakubo sent out into a small darkened room near the Gare de l’Est.
Saved for the models’ wet sheen, the side kiss curls gracing their temples, and the occasional large multicolor crowns on their heads, the show combined key elements from the staple of CdG’s signatures, like the mixed prints and checkerboards in shiny grey silk nylon as well as red and fushcia fabrics that recalling the patchwork of scarves stitched into a dress from this fall’s “Hybrid fashion” women collection. A long cotton shirt dress in fuschia or black was shown with jackets and coats as the new underpinning for next summer.
Two of my favorite looks were the black zippered biker jacket worn with a cotton knee length shirt dress and the white sleeveless double-breasted coat with a ruffled short sleeve shirt and slim pants. I also liked the black lace jacket with see-through sleeves towards the end of the show.
The colorful crowns–which hearken back to traditional tailoring and research into industrial fabrics, part of the CdG fashion vocabulary–often went unnoticed amidst the seasonal design quirks, like a black faded stripe double breasted trench and pants or a dark navy pinstripe coat with pants adorned with ruffles.
These classic Homme Plus garments are arriving next February to the network of expanding CdG shops around the world, as announced via the twice monthly mailer from the Tokyo office. Each mailer is part of a series a commissioned artwork printed on glossy white paper, each numbered in a sequence. Last year, one mailer included a collaboration with Chinese artist Ai Wei Wei, celebrating artistic integrity.
**Photos via GQ.com.