Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.
PARIS–In his second showing in Paris, Amsterdam-based designer Ehud Joseph continued his exploration of how clothing and uniforms changes as life evolves in the modern world. This time, he looked at the concept of migration as a way of personal reinvention, of how life in a dynamic world where people move from one place to another affect the choice of the clothes they wear, which serve as a protection against the changes and alienation inherent to these migratory experiences. Joseph has his own history of moving from continent to continent. He was born in Israel, grew up in New Zealand, moved to London in 2002 and graduated from Central Saint Martins with an MA in 2006 and after several years of consulting gigs launched his own label in 2009 from Amsterdam.
That migration means that the traditional codes of menswear are challenged and adapted to new circumstances. Here, a single breasted jacket has a double breasted layered on top, forming a trompe d’oeil of wearing two jackets; a heavy cotton suit jacket has a sheer nylon back that deconstructs the hardness of the silhouette; a jacket with a high collar coat worn as outerwear; a tee-shirt adorned with paint reflecting street-wear elements. Among the best pieces in the show was a yellow and a white trench coat and a long, single-breasted jacket that can be worn as a light coat. Even the aqua blue short suit with a cotton mandarin collar polo shirt looked chic, minus of course the gold lips painted on the model.
How Mr. Ehud evolves his collection in the next few seasons remains key to whether he can build a successful business in these tough market conditions. Now more than ever, it is critically important for younger brands to have stable production to guarantee the delivery of the clothes to stores. Now in its third season, Mr. Ehud’s collection is backed and produced by Gysemans Clothing Industries, the Belgium manufacturer that also produced Raf Simons’ collection.
“It is very important that there is a substantial manufacturer behind him because this demonstrates to retailers the ability of the brand to deliver on time a quality product. This is a long term approach rather than any temporary hype,” said Imad Fradj from the MC2 Diffusion showroom who has handle Ehud for three seasons now. Harvey Nichols Hong Kong picked up the collection this fall. “We work mainly with collections like Junn.J, who may have an avant-garde image but whose delivery and production quality are impeccable. It is important that buyers are coming to take a look and to learn about this collection.”
**Photos by Imaxtree.