Willhelm

To some extent, every fashion week is always a gender studies class: each collection always questions norms and archetypes, and forever reinvents their own personal ideals. Yesterday, three presentations offered their own definition of masculinity, for three very different results.

Bernhard Willhelm:
As always, the show was his over-the-top, insane, as theatrical as it is unwearable. This time, Willhelm seemed to push for a masculinity midway between a bodybuilder and Jesus: plastic crowns and bare, spray-tanned midriffs dominated the show–to the sound of a female bodybuilder singing with a mouthpiece, pouting and posing. Both terrifying and hilarious.

22/4

22/4:
In between shows, we dashed by the discreet, elegant showroom of German-based brand 22/4. The designer works on unisex clothes, and offers lines which are identical for both genders, with tiny changes to fit hips in. “You always want to borrow your boyfriend’s clothes, but in practice, it never works.” She said. For an-almost-boyfriend-jeans look.

Petrov

Petar Petrov:
Young and mature, the designer offered a grown-up, stylish collection composed of earth tones on deep blues, jersey and paper-thin calf skin. The silhouettes consisted of subtle layering, shorts and suits. Simple, wearable, timeless, and a tad retro for a Talented Mr Ripley look.