PARIS–Bras, quiffs, and six-packs: three shows, three sartorial universes, three very different boys. One thing they have in common? We could happily wear most the collections ourselves.
Julius: Japanese label Julius is best known for his all black looks–but after rapidly introducing grey and off-white onto his catwalk Friday, it was clear he was ready to push things further. Little did we know that this would consist of S&M gender-bending action: after throwing in stereotypically female elements, skirts and capes, he sent a full on Turlington-esque trannie down the catwalk. Think lip-gloss, maxi skirt with front slit, man-bra and necklace. Are men ready for that?
Walter Von Beirendonck: One thing that is safe to say about Walter is that he masters the comedy element better than most–scroll through his websites and you’ll find naked photos of him covered in fake body hair or fish scales. Yet this season, his usual wilderness was a rather tame one: men in Menkes-esque quiffs came marching down in pastel suits ranging from aqua to salmon, fitted at the exception of this season’s mandatory baggy trousers. And no skirt to be seen – who would have thought?
Boris Bidjan Saberi: Sexier than Rick Owens, more leather-bound than Demeulemesteer; Boris Bidjan Saberi’s clothes have great potential to be the next neo-Goth king. Last night, he presented a collection a controlled collection, all in black and taupe, lose yet
body conscious; this was punctuated by a South Park-esque hoody and a ripe six-pack. What do you think? Promising? Or yet another mini Rick Owens?