Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.
PARIS–When I arrived at the YSL menswear show, which took place in an intimate loft near the Jardin du Palais Royal, I found basketball star Dwyane Wade already sitting in the front row section, right off of the stage’s exit.
“This is my first time at a Paris show and today I am only seeing YSL and Givenchy,” he said when I asked if he is doing a round of shows this weekend. “These clothes are elegant but in a subtle way and not loud,” he responded when I enquired if he wears YSL on a regular basis.
Wade was wearing an ice blue mixed cotton single-breasted suit, a white cotton shirt, a dark blue silk linen scarf tied around his neck and white leather high tops embroidered with a red, white, and blue YSL logo. More than anyone so far that I’d seen at the Paris shows, Wade convey that touch of French elegance: calculated. but always giving an air of non-chalance.
That too can be said about Stefano Pilati’s collection, based mainly around the variations of the jacket, starting with a shining navy silk/cotton single-breasted suit with matching shirt and including a black slouchy double-breasted jacket worn with charcoal tank and navy pants, as well as an oval lapel jacket with a khaki shirt jacket underneath and matching shorts. There was also a double-breasted black leather jacket worn with blue pants. Each pairing of these jackets with different trousers or shorts as a suit or as a separate sport jacket expressed the various moods from day wear to evening. The black single-breasted tuxedo and the six button suit–both with a collarless khaki under-jacket–were great silhouettes, ones of which I am sure Mr. Wade was taking mental notes.
There’s nothing like summer whites, and the five all white looks in the middle of the show were outstanding and provided a balance to the black, navy, and khaki. Standouts included a single-breasted jacket with shorts above the knees, a baseball jacket with flared shorts, and a flap pocket suit.
Beyond providing the season’s staples as always, Mr. Pilati experimented with shapes. Here was a double breasted jacket buttoned at the right collar bone and slice in an angle down the torso; a double breasted jacket that had double layered vents; a white jacket was cinched in the back. There was light khaki cotton jacket with one button at the neck; a safari jacket with lacing; khaki shorts with laces down the front.
Very often in past seasons, Mr. Pilati’s experimentation may have at times gone awry and looked awkward. This time he did not veer off. Well, perhaps once with a black loose short sleeve pullover and flared pants. That look didn’t seem to belong in the show.
**Photos by Imaxtree.