When I was reviewing my Fashion Week schedule last week, I was very excited to see Alexandre Plokhov’s menswear and, more importantly, womenswear presentation listed on the calendar at Barneys New York.
Mr. Plokhov was the genius behind Cloak, a menswear label with a cult following that mysteriously shut its doors one day, kind of like the fashion-equivalent of the Willy Wonka factory. After Cloak, Alexandre took the helm at Versace menswear working with Donatella for several years.
Many moons ago (2008 maybe?), a mutual friend introduced me to Mr. Plokhov over oysters and champagne at SoHo institution Raoul’s. While we were having dinner and mostly talking about our mutual affection for really loud bands, I got tipsy enough to ask him when he was going to design womenswear. Partly because I wanted to wear his clothes so bad and partly because I wanted to style the show, the next half hour was spent drilling him on what his womenswear would look like. “Sexy and strong, a very powerful and disciplined woman,” is what I remember him saying so many years ago. When I walked into his presentation on Monday, the collection was exactly that–strict and beautifully tailored. Reminded me a bit of Azzedine Alaia‘s work, which is always a good thing, and so hard to achieve.
While I was told the menswear was inspired by “a recruit saying goodbye to his girlfriend,” I’m not buying it–unless his girlfriend is a power executive by day and chic S&M dungeon mistress at night. In other words: I loved it. It was exactly what I want to wear as a woman–the legs looked long, the waists looked small, the shoulders looked powerful, and the quality of the garments is impeccable.
The palate included black (leather dress! LOVE), grey (suiting fabrics), taupe, green and white. Half of the womenswear was tailored: There was the aforementioned LBD in leather, long sleeve corset tops paired with skinny leather leggings, a streamlined and very complimentary grey suit, while the other half of the collection was loose and languid–one shoulder silk sheaths with easy tie closures at the hip and laser cut pleated long sleeve dresses.
Basically, I would want to wear all of it. And I still want to style it, too. Wink.