Did Ann Demeulemesteer go on a spiritual quest through the desert recently? This is certainly what her collection felt like when a leather hat and kohl eyeliner-wearing Karlie Kloss walked down in sheer black layers inspired by traditional men’s caftans.

The show was like a hybrid of neo-gothic wear and several tribal references. Tassels usually found on classical Moroccan scarves were paired with a kimono-like jacket. The silhouettes were slouchier and sexier than usual: wide pants and wide tops, subtly revealing a shoulder (or an entire pair of breasts), under a seemingly demure, practical garment (for erm, those of us about to take off on a bra-less hike on Mount Sinai?)

This was also one of the few times where a good chunk of the collection was white. It first appeared on dresses in a tie die manner where black faded into white; she then played up the shade to the max and offered full white looks: baggy silk pants with a matching off-the shoulder top and cape–all with a touch of black, on a dangly leather necklace or a headband.

When Ann rocked out to say hello, it became clear that she probably had been on that spiritual trip. Instead of the shy, furtive woman we’re used to, a smiling, fresh-faced Ann came out with long wavy, highlighted hair. It was one of the highlights of the show.

**All photos via Imaxtree