Antonio Azzuolo Spring 2012: Relaxed Rebels

What do you do when you’re named a finalist for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund? If you’re Antonio Azzuolo, you relax. Azzuolo’s Spring 2012 collection
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What do you do when you’re named a finalist for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund? If you’re Antonio Azzuolo, you relax. Azzuolo’s Spring 2012 collection
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What do you do when you’re named a finalist for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund? If you’re Antonio Azzuolo, you relax.

Azzuolo’s Spring 2012 collection took its inspiration from les minets, a rebellious French mod movement that involved dressing up, starting shit and calling themselves great names like “les bloussons noir” (I can happily note that there is not, in fact, a single blouson in the entire collection).

Azzuolo can cut a suit, which was the focus of his previous collection. He hasn’t abandoned his passion, he’s just loosened up a little, bringing some of the fractious attitude from 50s France into his refined shapes of NYC 2012. His silhouettes are broader, with trousers playing fast and loose against trend. There are sleeveless tops out of The Wild One, shorts falling well below the knee, and a belted jacket that would be rakish on any man, any time. This is a smart, edgy, effort. And this is a designer obviously thinking of the future without the risk-adverseness that can come with being of the moment.

“Apres moi le deluge?” To the contrary, says Mr. Azzuolo.