Archive for September 2011

We heard from our friends over at Lucky that Hilary Alexander, the beloved and now “retired” fashion director of the Telegraph, was filming a fashion reality show called Behind the Seams. Since we’re here in London and have seen Hilary at practically every show this week, we decided to ask her about it.

Hilary was exceptionally gracious and chatted with us for a few minutes before the Christopher Kane show this morning. So is she working on a reality show? The short answer: Nope! She’s working on two. And at least one may be available in the US. Read on for the details:

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Julien McDonald, Jaegar, Jasper Conran

Julien, Jaeger and Jasper, oh my! Besides the same first letter, the latest three shows from London Fashion Week have crazy covetable colors in common too. Go to our Fashion Week page to read the reviews for Julien MacDonald‘s breathtaking Japanese embroidery, Jaeger‘s English ladylike separates in poppy colors and Jasper Conran‘s sleek columns in red, white and black. So far, LFW is looking pretty ah-mazing, wouldn’t you say?

Last Thursday afternoon, as fashion week came to a close a few avenues west, we sat near its former home at the Bryant Park-adjacent New York Public Library, where Rodarte‘s Kate and Laura Mulleavy were on hand to discuss their new photography book: Rodarte, Catherine Opie, Alec Soth (JRP | Ringier).

For the project, Catherine Opie and Alec Soth, both acclaimed (non-fashion) photographers, collaborated with the Mulleavys on creating original work that explores the world of Rodarte: Opie with a series of portraits of people wearing Rodarte and Soth with landscape shots from a California road trip (the Rodarte sisters gave him a map of places to visit including Berkeley, Big Sur, Santa Cruz, Joshua Tree, the Salten Sea and other places that have inspired their designs).

Catherine Opie also took part in the hour-long discussion with the Mulleavys, offering her perspective on the book’s creation and working with them, but we also learned a lot from Kate and Laura about their affection for California, how they get inspired, why they would never wear their own designs, and their mostly counter-intuitive approach to designing and selling clothes.

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Having spent Friday, the first day of London fashion week, in a jet-lagged daze wandering in and out of high street stores on Oxford Street while waiting for my hotel room to be ready, I missed all the smaller shows that day. Julien Macdonald, on a sunny Saturday morning, was my introduction to London’s fashion scene, and it was a great way to start. (And not only because they were handing out Krispy Kremes outside the venue.)

Imagine Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love” girls wearing black and white origami-cut dresses and dragon prints, and you have the Julien Macdonald show (well, the first half at least.) Featuring slicked, painted hair (Spring beauty trend alert! We saw it in New York, too) and red lips, his girls were ready to kick ass and take names.

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With more than 125 years of dressing lovely ladies in the UK, Jaeger is as British as tea and crumpets. And while their long history can read a bit stodgy, Jaeger has been on a campaign the last few years to hip it up a bit to appeal to a new generation–and, this show, with a few exceptions, is going to help that cause. It’s still a bit on the conservative side, yes, but I don’t really expect to see the Queen in the rainbow knee-length shorts or chic flat-brimmed Panama-esque hats any time soon.

I chatted briefly with the Telegraph‘s Hilary Alexander before one of the morning shows, and she predicted that geometry would be an early trend in London. That lady is not a fashion legend for no reason–Jaeger opened with a series of dresses and skirts featuring triangular cut-outs and neat scalloped edges. Tiny polka dots, almost like dotted swiss, adorned suits, dresses, and skirts. Striped pieces in muted tones of mustard, orange, and blue, were the standouts here, particularly on a tidy crew neck nipped-waist dress. It got fancier with eyelet and broderie gowns, followed by sheer lace adorned with bows.

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I hadn’t planned on attending the Jasper Conran show, but somehow I found myself wedged into the front row, so I went with it. I’m embarrassed to say that I didn’t know much about his work before the show, but I’m certainly going to start paying better attention from now on.

As a certified freak for fuchsia, Conran won my heart immediately with his beauty look, which featured sleek (but not wet) hair held back with a simple hair band. All the girls had fuchsia lips, neutral fingers, and fuchsia toes. This totally worked for me on every level.

Conran’s Spring colletion was minimalist, and the person next to me who said, “It’s a bit Jil Sander back in the day, isn’t it?” could be forgiven. It was, but there are worse standards by which to be judged.

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Name: Hannah Noble

Age: 17

Occupation: Model

Which are your most comfortable pair of shoes? My Converse

What was the last thing you bought? A taxi ride.

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From L-R: TopShop Unique, House of Holland, Jonathan Saunders

NYFW may be over, but Fashion Month has only just begun. Here’s the first of our London Fashion Week reviews, which you can see in full on our Fashion Week page. Between TopShop Unique‘s Egyptian themed body-con silhouettes, House of Holland‘s blown-up leopard spots and Jonathan Saunders 50s Miami prints, London is looking to be anything but boring.
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Is FNO Doomed? Vogue “insiders” reportedly dished on what we noticed too: the event is too much work for not enough revenue. Speculation says this might have been the last year–will you miss it? {Page Six}

Celeb Style From LFW: Peep what the famous are wearing during London’s shows; who looks better, Kate Moss or K.Stew? {FabSugar}

Marissa Webb Leaves J.Crew: The former VP of women’s design is heading out to “pursue other opportunities;” she’ll be succeeded by Tom Mora, head of the weddings and special occaisions who has been with the company for 10 years. {WWD

Tavi’s Looking For a Managing Editor: Launch managing editor Emily Condon is leaving the fledgling Rookiemag.com to return to her day job at This American Life. She was only on board for the launch. Who do you think is right for the job? {WWD subscription required}

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Topshop channeled Elizabeth Taylor’s campy and flamboyant Cleopatra for their spring 2012 Unique show. And boy, did they take that theme and run with it. Anna Wintour and Naomi Campbell (yay, my first supermodel sighting in London!) were both front and center, as was Topshop owner Sir Philip Green. Alas, no Kate Moss, dashing our hopes that perhaps she may soon be involved in another collection.

From the slicked back hair covered in gold leaf to hieroglyphic graffiti on everything, this collection was for a modern Egyptian queen, albeit with a quick detour through the 80s and early 90s hip hop. Black and gold were the prominent colorways, and the message here was, “Go body-con or go home.” Gold squiggles (super 80s moment here!) and gold hieroglyphics adorned everything from tube tops to bike shorts to tight dresses.

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The House of Holland show was a little bit of a visual shocker after seeing classic Brit heritage brand Jaeger London earlier on Saturday morning (review to come). A good chunk of the room was decked out in the bright orange and granny afghan print from Henry Holland’s fall 2011 collection. When I noted that the collection was titled “Pastel Punks” and that very large leopard spots had been painted on the wall, I knew it wasn’t going to be minimal (a word never, ever applicable to Henry Holland, admittedly.)

Holland’s inspiration this season was “skins and punks”, ska revival, and a Miami palette. Because of this, it was hands-down the best pre-show music I’ve heard this season–lots of Clash. The show started with some bleached-out denim pieces looked exactly like a sky filled with cheery clouds (unlike the London weather outside, which was a complete downpour.)

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Shown at a super-slick space at Paddington Central, lit with rows of neon tube lights, I was expecting stark minimalism at the Jonathan Saunders show. Instead, the designer gave us a vision of vaguely 50s cuts in a thoroughly modern color, with ombré thrown in.

Miami-inspired palettes were popular this season (Henry Holland mined the colors, too), and the color combination was also the starting point for Jonathan Saunders’ gorgeous collection. Vaguely paisley-esque patterns boldly covered ladylike knee-length dresses. For the most part, the pieces were all modest and buttoned up, but it never read as frumpy, which is no mean feat.

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