1. Why do they have so many meetings about Rachel without her there?
2. Do you think Jeremiah will last?
3. Seriously where is Rachel? Is the perpetual sweating keeping her off camera?
4. Gilver? Is that a thing? Pretty sure that’s not a thing, Mandana.
5. Is Jeremiah kind of winning you over with his earnestness?
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It’s fitting that Carine Roitfeld is wearing a “God Save the Queen” tee on her i-D cover (which we saw on The Cut), because she reigns supreme. This is one of the rare instances we can remember of a usually behind-the-scenes fashion person covering a fashion mag (though you could hardly call Roitfeld ‘behind-the-scenes’–she is the scene).
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A refreshing departure from the dressy, tailored prints we’ve been seeing this week, Phillip Lim showed a collection of breezy, sporty separates in clean shapes with little embellishment. The focal points of the collection were color, movement and accessories.
Kites served as Lim’s inspiration and that was evident in the way the clothes moved. Minimal, super thin blouses, jumpsuits and dresses were cut just-so with a little extra fabric on the collar or the sleeves that delicately swayed as the models walked. The effect was quite lovely. Also interesting-he almost managed to create the same light, floaty effect with dyed leathers later in the show.
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The Gap went through some tough times this year. They fired Patrick Robinson, the creative director and face of the brand (and still haven’t named a successor), and then there was that whole logo change fiasco.
So we’re happy to report, after taking a tour through Gap’s spring collection yesterday, that the retailer is back on track. They’ve returned to the casual Americana that made them a staple in everyone’s wardrobe. It’s back to the basics–jeans, tees, cotton dresses, striped sweaters–but with a focus on making them true quality stand-bys you can rely on and mix with your fancier designer pieces. There’s an emphasis on comfort, but not at the cost of style.
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Nanette Lepore’s vibrant Spring collection can be summed up in one word: electric. “I took a break from color last season and had a very white show, so I was recharging my batteries,” the designer told us backstage. Thus, Lepore showed 32 looks in cheerful, neon hues including yellow, tangerine, and pink. Live music by Sam Bisbee’s band added to the energized atmosphere.
While the color palette was strong, Lepore created a perfect balance with soft, feminine silhouettes inspired by the 1950’s. “I love the way Cybill Shepherd was dressed in The Last Picture Show,” the designer said, recalling the classic film. “We’re moving out of that period where everything is super draped and sexy and into a more conservative era,” she added.
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Michelle Smith often turns to art when designing her contemporary label, Milly, and this season was no different. For Spring 2012, Smith drew inspiration from French artist Sonia Delaunay, who is famous for incorporating bold colors and geometric prints into her paintings and textile designs. Fittingly, the runway’s backdrop was covered in a canvas featuring rectangular prints in red, blue, green, and brown.
To complement the bold patterns, Smith stuck to clean silhouettes including short sheaths, button down shirts, and cigarette pants. “It’s a much simpler cut this season,” the designer told us backstage. “You won’t see any bows and ruffles, it’s a little more clean and modern,” she added. The show opened with a silk-linen “puzzle print” coat in cobalt, brown, and white, over a short shift dress in the same pattern. The second look was a simpler color-block dress, paired over a navy elbow-sleeve sweater. Other highlights included a silk maxi dress in cobalt and ecru, a belted wool jacket with wide leg trousers in tangerine, and some great jacquard jackets in the signature prints.
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Sometimes, you need a little break from the “serious” fashion. All “sophisticated minimalism” and the “new modern silhouette” makes fashion a dull girl (or boy). Fashion is fun! It shouldn’t be technical all the time. Luckily, we have The Blonds and Jeremy Scott to look forward to each season to slap us in the face when we start to get a little bleary eyed. Check out the reviews and pictures from The Blonds‘ sparkly Katy-Perry-meets-Gaga leotards and micro-minidresses and Jeremy Scott‘s Vegas-sexy wild West vacation wear. These clothes may not be practical, or even really wearable (unless you’re a Playboy Bunny, I guess), but they are a lot of fun to look at when monochrome pantsuits are getting you down.
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Dear The Blonds,
Thanks for putting on the most fun show of fashion week. After days of sitting properly watching lovely shift dresses walk back and forth, it was really great to mingle with the over-the-top crowd and cheer for the models. And the clothes, they were great too. Because there’s nothing to counter this season’s sedated sex appeal like Phillip Blond dressed as a Playboy Bunny. And he looked better than most of the Hef’s actual bunnies, too. (Did we mention Playboy sponsored the show?)
Sincerely yours,
Steff
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Jeremy Scott’s predictably insane collections tend to echoe the young, urbane, hipster party vibe of his front rows (Sky Ferreira, The MisShapes, Olivier Zahm, Cory Kennedy, Peaches Geldof, Waris Ahluwalia, to name a few of yesterday’s attendees). However, this season, his reference points were a bit more down-home, but not without Scott’s sexy (and at times obscene) rock and roll twist. And I don’t think anyone could do a hillbilly-inspired collection without a sense of humor…or without being Jeremy Scott, actually.
For girls, there were pale denim overall bustiers, ruffly off-the-shoulder crop tops and skin tight mini skirts and dresses, all appropriate for a hillbilly who likes to party. However, the women’s looks were tame in comparison to the men’s. Almost every men’s look included a pair of “pants” with the butt and crotch cut out–not surprising at all for Scott. We’re not sure who would wear those other than male strippers, but that’s not really the point.
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When I was reviewing my Fashion Week schedule last week, I was very excited to see Alexandre Plokhov’s menswear and, more importantly, womenswear presentation listed on the calendar at Barneys New York.
Mr. Plokhov was the genius behind Cloak, a menswear label with a cult following that mysteriously shut its doors one day, kind of like the fashion-equivalent of the Willy Wonka factory. After Cloak, Alexandre took the helm at Versace menswear working with Donatella for several years.
Many moons ago (2008 maybe?), a mutual friend introduced me to Mr. Plokhov over oysters and champagne at SoHo institution Raoul’s. While we were having dinner and mostly talking about our mutual affection for really loud bands, I got tipsy enough to ask him when he was going to design womenswear.
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Here it is: The full Alexa Chung for Madewell look book. And it is, as expected, stupendous. It doesn’t hurt that Alexa styled it herself.
Granted, we’re a bit biased because we’re pretty much obsessed with everything Alexa does…okay, I am obsessed with everything Alexa does, but that’s neither here nor there: this collection is truly great. From the sweet, white lace dress to the palm-print pajama pants to the leopard booties to the floral blouse–you get the picture, we want it all!
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Style Bubble’s Susie Lau explains her amazing fashion week life. But it’s the post-fashion week ritual that we really relate to: watching TV shows and looking “like a misshapen potato.” We’re with you on that one, Susie.
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