Archive for September 2011

Attending Hoffman’s Spring presentation, aptly named “Mara Mexicana,” was like being at a fiesta with Mariachi bands to boot. While Hoffman drew inspiration from famed Mexican painter Frida Kahlo, the cheerful patterns and colors undoubtedly channeled the designer’s personal life. “It was time for celebrating life and enjoying the fruits of our labor,” Hoffman said. “I just had a baby and thought, ‘It’s time for life, it’s time for color’.”

The collection boasted six different prints in palates from neon to neutral. There were laid back rompers with eye popping Aztec prints in oranges and blue, sheer silk crepe tunics, and dashikis with neon embroideries (a nod to her swimwear collection).

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If there was ever a case for opposites attracting, it’s NAHM. For their sophomore collection, designers Ally Hilfiger and Nary Manivong produced an intricately crafted line–again, based upon their shirtdress foundation–that ran the gamut from floaty delicate cotton shifts to woven silk cocoon dresses that.

The inspiration was Belle du Jour and the Parisian ex-pats who traveled to Laos in the ’70s, which Manivong and Hilfiger explored through four themes: repression, exploration, freedom and rebellion. It’s interesting to note how the different techniques of the two designers meshed. Nary’s Laotian-American roots are evident in the traditional Laotian prints used in silk drop-waist and bell-sleeved dresses while the wispy white cotton frocks clearly bear Hilfiger’s feminine touch. Though these looks might seem contradictory, the close attention to detailing creates common threads: each shirtdress and button-down is restrained by a sharp triangular collar while those with more of a T-shirt cut bear large bows. The result is a girly yet louche style that will be a definite hit among the younger urban set.

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Last night CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nominee SUNO hosted its first-ever runway show at Milk. Perhaps it was the CFDA recognition that encouraged the brand to mature in many ways, from a presentation to a show, from kooky mixed prints to ladylike complementary patterns.

Minutes before the show, I speculated with a friend about how well SUNO’s intensely layered looks, complicated prints, and detailed accessories would translate to the five-second-glimpse of a look one gets at a fashion show… Not well, we decided. SUNO’s designers Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty must have agreed with us, since the kooky art-teacher-on-vacation vibe that permeated SUNO shows of yore was replaced with nothing short of ladylike glamor.

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We’re growing to love Billy Reid’s presentations because they always tell a story–and this season, we couldn’t help but remember the lauded designer’s own inspiring narrative. Billy, who you may know as the most recent CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner, actually won CFDA’s Best New Menswear Designer award in 2001 as William Reid. His company, like many, hit hard times in the 9/11 aftermath, forcing him to close up shop and head back south to Alabama, where he started over.

Now, 10 years later, Billy is one of fashion’s shining stars. His presentation last night drew a crowd so huge I could barely see the models. To get to the front, I ended up having to nudge my way through the beer-clutching masses and the whole experience reminded me of being at concert. Turns out, I was. Behind the models, and an absolutely gorgeous set of hanging candles and tree branches, was a full band, rounding out the late night outdoor concert vibe of the Milk Studios space.

“Our friends who are playing music tonight, really they became the inspiration,” Billy told us.

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It seemed all of lower Manhattan got their freaky dressing on last night to celebrate the opening of Nicola’s, Nicola Formichetti’s pop-up concept store with BOFFO Building Fashion. The black-leather-filled line that snaked up Walker Street held enough silver studs to decorate a Hun army, and I counted no fewer than six people with primary-colored hair all before even entering MI-5, the uber-cool bar next to the pop-up where Thierry Mugler parfums was throwing the celebration.

The outfits themselves weren’t the only unusual sight. Rarely do you encounter a store in the middle of Tribeca with an interior of fractured mirrors and a giant panda in the window. But that’s Formichetti for you; the Thierry Mugler designer and Gaga stylist is always mixing it up.

So how did it all come about?

“Boffo approached me and asked if I’d be interested in opening a store,” Formichetti told us. “And I was like, ‘Well, it’s not like I’m not busy.’

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We are toiling tirelessly in the tents to get yet more reviews for you. Check out our latest set including Kimberly Ovitz, who was inspired by Japanese architecture, an arty Cynthia Rowley, and hip suiting at United Bamboo. Go to our fashion week page here–and let us know what you think of the shows so far.

Prolific fashion designer Cynthia Rowley’s interest in contemporary art (she also runs the online art site ExhibitionA.com with husband Bill Powers) was on full display at her Spring 2012 runway show yesterday evening. The collection, described as “flash mobs of floral and animated shapes” and “the thrill of adornment in forced perspectives”, was like a sartorial version of an art history class.

The line was a mix of abstract watercolor florals, geometric hard angle graphics, and brilliant metallic textures – sometimes commingling together in one look. The canvases for the eye-catching prints were the designer’s signature girly silhouettes–flared mini-skirts and dresses with layered panels (perfect for twirling around), mesh leather separates, silky painted leggings, and tailored tuxedo jackets.

Now, let’s address this celebrity business.

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Kimberly Ovitz may be best known outside the fashion world as the woman who designed Lindsay Lohan’s skintight court dress–but within the industry, Ovitz is making a name for herself in beautiful, intellectually-designed clothing.

If her Fall 2011 collection was inspired by Brazil, then this season’s show–full of billowy shapes and ethereal, floaty dresses–was all about Japan. “I was inspired by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, whom I discovered after the Japan disaster happened,” she told us backstage after the show. “I was interested in this idea of disaster vs. relief; nature vs. man.” This dynamic interplay is perfectly conceptualized in the work of Shigeru Ban, who was hired by the Japanese government to create temporary housing.

Ovitz was particularly inspired by Ban’s Curtain House–a work, which, if you haven’t guessed, features white flowing curtains in place of walls, and which certainly seemed to have informed the collection’s flowy, white dresses and pants.

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“We wanted to make clothes you can wear to work,” Thuy Pham, one half of the design duo that is United Bamboo told us after their spring 2012 show. And if you want to be the chicest, hippest, girl at the office, this collection is for you.

There was an emphasis on suiting, but with a relaxed bent: a black leather blazer you could live in; navy linen pleat front pants and blazers to match; printed slouchy silk dresses. But as always with United Bamboo, there are subtle twists and tricks. The feminine bow details at the shoulder of dresses served a function, too. Pham demonstrated on a dress his co-designer Aoki that the bow is actually a ribbon sewn through the waist of the dress, so when it’s tied at the shoulder it’s gathered just-so. Blazers were split open at the back. Pham said the pair were influenced by Issey Miyake in the ’90s. The abstract prints were done by Aoki’s husband, a painter who was inspired by ’80s street graffiti.

And of course we couldn’t leave without asking about their famous cat calendar (obviously a Fashionista favorite).

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Images from Brazilian swim label Blue Man’s latest campaign featuring transsexual model Lea T. have just been released on Made in Brazil blog.

Shot by Terry Richardson, the campaign features a gorgeous, tanned Lea T, clad in one of the label’s lace-up one-pieces. The campaign also features Marlon Teixeira horsing around with another male model–though there’s no sign yet of the two kissing, something else we were looking forward to seeing in the ads.

What we like most about the ads, is that they embrace Lea T for what she is: A gorgeous, talented model. Read more »

Nicole Miller, Costello Tagliapietra, Rebecca Taylor

We saw patchworked separates at Rebecca Taylor, rollerblade-chic at Nicole Miller and those classic draped dresses we love so much from Costello Tagliapietra. Check out their collections as well as our take on them on our Fashion Week page!
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Nicole Miller titled her spring collection Fast Forward/Rewind, describing “the speed of wheels in motion” as her inspiration. The athletic-cool clothes brought new meaning to the term “street style,” with colorful checkerboard patterns and racerback tanks sharing runway space alongside–wait for it–a head-to-toe patchwork neon jumpsuit. While we recommend leaving that particular look to the professionals, there was still plenty of wearable fun in a collection that drew on vintage cycling and Rollerblading garb. The biggest standouts, in my opinion, were the separates embellished with tons of colorful seed beads, those arts-and-crafts decorations beloved by summer campers and DIYers everywhere. Shimmering across skirts and thin-strapped slipdresses, the beads added a little richness and heft (literally–by the thousands, those things weigh down a frock like none other) to the lineup. For those less daring, there was also a section of body-con black frocks with colorful panels that outlined and bisected the wearer’s form. Could bodyblocking be the new colorblocking?

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