Cushnie et Ochs, Sachin + Babi, Kevork Kiledjian
Hey hey, we’ve got new show reviews and galleries up over on our Fashion Week section of the site. Check out the updated ’70s chic at Sachin + Babi, skin-bearing minis at Kevork Kiledjian and leather peplums at Cushnie et Ochs.
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Having never viewed any of French designer Kevork Kiledjian’s work before, I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect when I arrived at his show yesterday. In his collection notes, the designer (whose former collections include Triiad and Guilty Brotherhood) promised “an eternal palette for a new encounter” that was “the outcome of a captured evolution,” statements that left guests scratching their heads from the get-go. But after the first few exits alone, it became clear that manipulating and molding leather is where this designer shines. There were impressively tailored skinny leather pants, a cool white buckled vest, and a number of tiny bustier dresses with intricately braided seams. And I liked a pink-and-olive printed chiffon that, though it at first glance appeared to be a floral design, turned out to be a pattern of snarling tigers (fierce, indeed).
The problem?
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There’s no question as to why 2011 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist Cushnie et Ochs is a favorite amongst red carpet starlets like Jessica Alba, Rihanna, and Olivia Wilde. The label is known for its sexy body-con silhouettes, strategically suggestive cut-outs and supple leather pieces, and the upcoming Spring season definitely keeps up the heat.
The first look down the runway–a stark white and super cleavage-y strapless peplum dress–set the tone. The theme throughout the looks: dominatrix-esque leather cut-outs, criss-cross detailing and tons of peplum. The leather pieces are easily translated for Spring–our favorites included the black leather bustier dress with flared skirt, the reverse version with a stretch fabric bustier top with leather flared skirt, and a body-con peplum moto-vest. As the 90s silhouettes rang strong, we couldn’t help but think of the Thierry Mugler-directed and supermodel-populated 1992 George Michael “Too Funky” video, which also featured Mugler’s drop-dead sexy moto-inspired bodysuits.
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Though husband-and-wife design duo Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia have only been showing ready-to-wear for four seasons (they’ve been designing textiles and a home decor collection for almost a decade), a glance at the intricate leather cutouts and modern silhouettes of their Spring 2012 collection looks like the work of a creative team with far more years under their belt.
The duo worked resort’s bright colors (a product of their Indian roots) of sherbert orange and pink into a light 70s theme, which Sachin said, “started with three muses: Faye Dunaway, Bianca Jagger and Jerri Hall, with a little bit of Studio 54.” This disco-era glamour shines through in their first attempt at eveningwear with a flowing coral gown and several pieces in Lurex–like a gold strapless gown and a floor-length navy skirt. But it’s not all retro; their real goal was reinterpretation, which they achieved to great success by tweaking the silhouettes, creating cleaner lines and focusing on detailing.
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If there’s one thing Fashion’s Night Out is good for, it’s seeing celebrities. As our street research taught us, people may not drop dollars but they will turn up in droves for a Kardashian or Anna Wintour, even if it means hours standing in a line jostled by other sweaty, excited, semi-drunk people. While it [...]
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We just received a press release confirming the attendance of one very important reality TV star at a show this week: the incomparable Nicole “Snooki” Polizzi. It was only a matter of time before the Jersey Shore star (and budding accessories designer) made her New York Fashion Week debut; we’re sure she’ll do it with the utmost style and class.
She’s attending the bebe BLACK Fashion Show on Monday, which is part of the STYLE360 semi-annual New York Fashion Week Showcase at the Metropolitan Pavilion. Also a part of that showcase: Abbey Dawn by Avril Lavigne. Surprised? Neither were we. Confirmed “celebrities” there include Kylie Jenner, who, as we previously reported, will walk the show; as well as Kendall Jenner, Brody Jenner and, inexplicably, The Real Housewives of New Jersey‘s Teresa Giudice. Maybe her daugher Gia is walking in the show, too?
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The Times‘ Ruth la Ferla recently wrote about Kate Middleton‘s effect on the runway. Before I even read the article, Wes Gordon‘s collection struck me as an example of that. Lo and behold, he’s referenced in the first paragraph. He tells la Ferla that designers must ask themselves, “How do I make elegance relevant to someone who’s young?” We think the clothes he showed at the Hosfelt Gallery yesterday were the perfect answer to that.
We’re not saying Wes was inspired by the Duchess of Cambrige directly, since that’s been his thing since the beginning, but he definitely makes clothes for cool, young girls who want to look nice and put together, day or night–a market that has perhaps grown thanks to Middleton.
Instead of going for obscure reference points, edginess, or androgyny, Wes goes for pretty and does it really, really well. One of our inaugural Fashionista 15 members, his clothes keep getting better.
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What, exactly, do designers go through just days before their runway shows? We decided to spend the morning with Peter Som to find out. Upon arriving at his studio on West 26th Street Wednesday morning, it was nonstop action. Here’s a snippet of a day in the life of a designer pre-fashion week from too-big shoes to designer vices:
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Eleven new designers will show their spring 2012 collections tonight thanks to the newly revived Gen Art, an institution that has helped propel labels like Vena Cava, Zac Posen and Phillip Lim into the spotlight. They had to take a little break due to financial woes, but now they’re back in full force with their annual “Fresh Faces in Fashion presented by smart car” program. Gen Art has selected the following lucky 11 women’s, men’s and accessory designers to showcase their stuff for editors and buyers in a fully staged runway show.
But, it’s not just luck–each of these designers are genuinely talented and, from what we’ve seen very promising. Many of them are already on the road to success–one’s being sold at Madewell–and have impressive pedigrees, like Central St. Martins degrees and a gig at Alexander McQueen. Also, three of them made it into our Fashionista 15.
We think they’re all ones to watch and we wanted to share their stories so, we interviewed each of them for mini versions of our How I’m Making It series. Click through to find out how these future stars have been and where they’re going.
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OK, we’ll admit that we don’t actually know all that much about Justin Bieber, so we have a long way to go. Luckily WWD got a great interview with the Biebs during his appearance at the Dolce & Gabbana store on Fashion’s Night Out last night. (Lucky them. We waited in a throng of screeching, sobbing, pushing tweens, many of whom had much nicer handbags than us–only to be denied a Biebs sighting. Anyway.)
Here’s what we learned about his personal life, his design ambitions (of course he wants to design), and his matrimonial desires:
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MODELS UNCENSORED: ANDREJ PEJIC from Milk Made on Vimeo.
Here’s a little mid-Fashion-Week snack for you: Andrej Pejic, dressed as Marilyn Monroe, in Norman Jean–a film created by Prince Chenoa and Jacob Dekat from Love Cat magazine, filmmaker Jenna Elizabeth and styled by Patricia Field.
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