After spending the morning with Peter Som a few days before his spring show, we couldn’t wait to see the strong, bright—but not overly feminine—floral prints take shape on the runway. Although we knew what to expect, we were still curious to hear Tommy Hilfiger’s predictions before the show began. “Fun and lux,” the designer told us. Clearly, Hilfiger knows his consultant well. We couldn’t have said it better ourselves.
Som featured playful patterns, including oversized floral prints in bold hues like tangerine, rose and cobalt which took shape in slim cut pants and structured shifts and coats. He also incorporated zebra motifs into classic styles, including a silk twill blouse matched with a pleated skirt, and a high waisted bikini. Those with caviar taste will love the shiny eel leather used to create a deep pink trouser skirt and bright yellow panel dress.
Since Som likes to give things a twist, the collection seemed perfectly balanced. There was a powder blue twill pant and jacket, worn open with a bikini top underneath. He topped digitally printed bathing suits with structured–almost Mod–knit jackets. A long cobalt t-shirt dress featured a high slit and peekaboo back, while a fuchsia cocktail dress boasted feathers and studs. Each look was paired with sky-high Charlotte Olympia platforms and sandals. Makeup looked natural, and hair was tousled.
Constance Jablonski closed the show in our favorite number: a maxi dress with a mini-rose print in different shades of blue, a high slit, and a pleated hem. “It was great, colorful, and energetic,” Anna Dello Russo told us post-show. Agreed.