PARIS–We always look forward to Miu Miu as our final show of Paris Fashion Week. The front row is reliably stacked with their darling devotees–campaign girl Hailee Steinfeld was there looking lovelier than ever in a Miu Miu party frock with a giant pink bow on the back; so was actress Juno Temple, and too many It-girls to count (Alexa Chung, Elettra Wiedemann, Poppy Delevigne, Caroline Sieber, and the Courtin Clarins girls to name just a few).
Come spring, those It-girls will be clamoring for pointy toed mules that looked part Wicked Witch of the East (after Dorothy’s house has landed on her) and part Louis XIV. The knee-high boot version with cowgirl-esque leather floral appliques up the side will be in-demand too, no doubt. As will their matching lady-like purses. The more daring trendsetters (and street style stars) will go for the little garden pail bags in bright satins.
While the accessories were cheery, the show opened on a rather moody note. The cinematic soundtrack featured tense strings that recalled Psycho and the first looks stuck to a grey and black palette on a-line skirts and structured crop tops. Hair and make-up was severe, too: matted bangs parted right down the middle and red eye-shadow.
But dainty mini-capes tied and draped across the shoulders hinted at girlier looks to come. The doom and gloom gave way to layered lace shifts and fantastic wallpaper prints on ’60s party dresses with gathered waists and matching coats tied low around the shoulders. Prints were patchworked, too, like the chicest quilts, on dresses coats and capes.
There was something very twisted Red Riding Hood (which, fittingly, is a French fairy tale) about Miuccia Prada’s spring collection for Miu Miu, and we mean that in the best way. Whereas Prada was sweet and ’50s for spring, the usually girlier Miu Miu got to show her dark side. And we liked it. So did Grace Coddington, whom we overheard telling Juno Temple that she thought the collection was “wonderful.”