Archive for October 2011

Target’s style handle on Twitter started dropping not-subtle-enough hints about their next GO design collaborator less than 24 hours ago. (“Clue 1: the new @TargetStyle designer began sketching the future of fashion at 5 years old.”) Target is still dropping hints about their next designer (“#TargetDesigner Clue 5: Senior year of high school in #Paris? Oui, oui. Our next designer has international influence”) but we already know it’s Jason Wu (he sketched and designed on dolls when he was five).

We got word a while back from from a well-placed source that Wu would be Target’s next GO designer. And then Styleite reported yesterday that they, too, knew it was Wu. And now it’s all confirmed in WWD. How’s that for fast fashion news?

Following the more massive and much hyped design collaboration Missoni just did with Target (the 400 piece collection crashed the big box retailer’s web site when it launched on September 13), we’re looking forward to this smaller, hopefully less-frenzied, line from Target. We’re even more excited that it’s Jason Wu who will be designing it. Ever since Wu burst onto the scene after Michelle Obama chose his design to wear on the night of the inauguration in 2009, he’s consistently presented strong collections featuring refined, ladylike designs. They should translate well to mass.

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Models

Image of the Day: Gisele Closes Givenchy

Sunday, Oct 2, 2011 / 7:52 PM

Photo: Getty


PARIS–Gisele took a little break from Boston to make a rare runway appearance at Givenchy tonight. Read more »

Mood Board

October Mood Board

Sunday, Oct 2, 2011 / 6:28 PM


Click through to find out what Fashionista is loving for October! Read more »

April Crichton, the newly named creative director for Sonia Rykiel, presented her first collection for the label yesterday along a very very long canary yellow runway painted on the floor of the massive Halle Freyssinet. It was hard not to smile as the sporty ’20s-inspired pleated skirts, menswear pants, and classic Rykiel stripey knits came down the runway. Even the models smiled, too, as their hair, pulled back with oversized barrets, bounced in step. That sunny, bright yellow was prevalent on the dresses as well as the runway, sealing yellow’s fate as the color for spring.

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PARIS–A year ago, Haider Ackermann presented a collection that cautiously experimented with colors: deep purples and green silks punctuated his usually somber palette. “She is ready to come out of the shadow,” the designer had told us in regards to the Haider woman.

Today, she is definitely out in the limelight–and the collection was possibly his boldest one to day, marking a real turn in his career: the trademark deconstructed darkness blended with bright (relatively speaking) hues, and mismatching patterns.

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PARIS–In the car on the way past the Luxembourg gardens towards the Pantheon near where Kanye West held his debut womenswear collection on the fourth floor of the Lycée Henri IV, I thought about all those times that I had gone to the Baby Phat by Kimora Lee Simmons show where clearly entertainment and not fashion was the main attraction. It was the era when bling triumphed over substance. Somehow I was hoping that this would not be the case for Kanye West. In fact, I was ardently hoping this would not be the case. Yet, I know that fashion is a roll of dice and in many cases one does not get double sixes, once or ever.

I remembered back in May 2007 when we shot Mr. West for Flaunt’s September 2007 fashion issue, he told me of his interest in someday doing a fashion line. Over the years, at the shows in Paris and New York, he has been a constant presence, sometimes an unwelcome one. But attending these shows was like being enrolled in fashion school. Seeing how other designers present their collections is like learning on the job. At the very least, one cannot fault his commitment and his enthusiasm for fashion which lead to last night’s show.

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To the average person (and even for some designers) fashion is just about the clothes–making pretty things for people to wear. But there’s much more to fashion for Vivienne Westwood. The godmother of punk knows a thing or two about the power of fashion to affect change, and lately her clothes have been all about saving the planet. Her red label show in London a few weeks ago supported an organization called Cool Earth, which is dedicated to saving the rainforest. At that show, Cheryl was looking for some eco-punk from Dame Westwood, but instead found a subdued collection that you could even wear to work. Well, Cheryl, I’m happy to report the eco-punk was here in Paris at the ballroom of Le Grand Hôtel Intercontinental. I wouldn’t recommend wearing this stuff to your corporate day job unless you’re looking to stick it to the man. If you are, you should definitely wear Westwood.

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PARIS–Attending Rodolfo Paglialunga’s spring 2012 presentation for Vionnet was almost a transportative experience. The glamorous ’30-inspired dresses matched the posh setting–a mirrored salon on the Rue de Valois–and I almost forgot about the sweltering heat awaiting me on the Metro after the show.

The bias-cut silk evening dresses (remember Madeleine Vionnet invented the bias cut) that closed the show oozed elegance and were stand outs. A final look in sheer tulle with a silver starburst at the center elicited hushed “oohs” from the audience. Stars were a motif throughout the collection, appearing boldly across the bottom of day dresses and skirts, and more subtly on a gold wrap evening gown. A fitting theme for a line so suited to the red carpet. Madonna recently earned a spot on our best dressed list when she wore Vionnet to the Venice Film Festival (too bad her film didn’t fare as well).

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Kanye West showed his debut collection tonight in Paris. The show was easily one of the most buzzed about of the week and he wrangled an impressive front row, with designers outweighing celebrities. Based on reports from Twitter and Eric Wilson’s just-posted write-up on the Times‘ blog On the Runway, Azzedine Alaïa, Joseph Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Olivier Theyskens, Dean and Dan Caten, Jeremy Scott and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen were all there. The right editors were there too: Anna Wintour, Carine Roitfeld, Glenda Bailey and Anna Dello Russo. As for the celebrities who showed? La Lohan was there, as we reported, and so was Ciara, but sadly Beyonce and Jay-Z were no-shows. Or maybe, not so sadly, considering the show was slammed by critics almost as soon as the first model hit the runway.

We’ll have our review posted tomorrow morning (our fabulous contributor, Flaunt’s Long Nguyen, was one of the lucky 100 granted a ticket). Until then, here’s what the critics had to say about it over Twitter. Warning, it’s not pretty.

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The Isabel Marant girl is just the coolest. So cool that the models came to the show wearing Marant before they walked in it on the runway. And of course, only A-list girls on this runway–Abbey Lee, Joan Smalls, Arizona Muse, Anja Rubik, the list goes on. Le sigh.

Next spring you’ll be coveting chunky knit pullovers and mini dresses, graphic printed and patchwork colored denim, varsity jackets, and tie dye everything. In addition to the varsity jackets, the show definitely had an American-hip-hop-athletic vibe–perhaps an acknowledgment of the cult following Marant has in the US.

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PARIS–Yesterday felt like a steamy hot summer day rather than early fall day in Paris. At the entrance of the tent at the Musee Rodin, a swarm of photographers stood in a semi-circle waiting for their next prey to descend the steps in the courtyard. Just a few meters behind them, the Chinese singer Laure Shang (the Lady Gaga of China) appeared in a white slouch silk blouse, high waisted black pants, a Dior tan leather purse and a velvet beret. One of her assistants straightened her collar. For a moment, in the sumptuous courtyard, it seemed the drama over the firing of Dior designer John Galliano last March had died down and it was business as usual.

On the runway, white bulbs mounted along the walls flickered to form the outlines of the molded wall panels of Dior’s headquarters, transporting the audience to the Avenue Montaigne salon. As the press documents on our seats noted, the collection that followed “reworks the codes that define the house to the present a modern silhouette inspired by the iconic Basque of the Veste Bar Dior. Elegant proportions are revisited and refined to create a new contemporary luxury.’

The entire show was composed of familiar Dior silhouettes over the ages, like the white elbow sleeve boatneck jacket and black and white knee length skirt or the navy Bar jacket with khaki pants. The collection felt safe and comfortable within the Dior universe.

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Only someone like Alber Elbaz could hold the fashion sweat set captive in a sauna l’Espace Ephemere for nearly an hour and not enrage the well-dressed (and not for 90 degree weather, we might add) masses. Lovely illustrated fans were placed on every seat, and bons bons and bellinis that were passed until right before the models hit the runway (a tray even crashed to the floor right before the models hit the runway). Everyone in the packed tent good-naturedly fanned themselves while they enjoyed yet another fantastic Lanvin collection from Elbaz.

Julianne Moore and Kristen Scott Thomas were in the front row at Lanvin, which is telling, I think, of the clothes that came down the runway. Read more »