PARIS–Attending Rodolfo Paglialunga’s spring 2012 presentation for Vionnet was almost a transportative experience. The glamorous ’30-inspired dresses matched the posh setting–a mirrored salon on the Rue de Valois–and I almost forgot about the sweltering heat awaiting me on the Metro after the show.
The bias-cut silk evening dresses (remember Madeleine Vionnet invented the bias cut) that closed the show oozed elegance and were stand outs. A final look in sheer tulle with a silver starburst at the center elicited hushed “oohs” from the audience. Stars were a motif throughout the collection, appearing boldly across the bottom of day dresses and skirts, and more subtly on a gold wrap evening gown. A fitting theme for a line so suited to the red carpet. Madonna recently earned a spot on our best dressed list when she wore Vionnet to the Venice Film Festival (too bad her film didn’t fare as well).
In addition to stars, butterflies and flowers (and maybe some bees?) dotted the collection. A bold cobalt blue floral print showed up on pants and then on evening wear, while butterflies trailed across chartreuse dresses and landed, sequined, in models’ hair. Stars, flowers, and sequined butterflies? It might sound like too much. But it wasn’t. We hope to see more of these dresses on the red carpet soon.
**All photos: Imaxtree