Bernhard Willhelm's Male Models 'Love Black Cock'

PARIS--Bernhard Wilhelm. How I long for his shows. Every season, the Austrian designer manages to make the typically unfazed French turn PC-consciou
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PARIS--Bernhard Wilhelm. How I long for his shows. Every season, the Austrian designer manages to make the typically unfazed French turn PC-consciou
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PARIS--Bernhard Wilhelm. How I long for his shows. Every season, the Austrian designer manages to make the typically unfazed French turn PC-conscious. But his shows are also an oasis of fun amidst a monochrome and tightly controlled fashion week.

Last season, the models all wore temporary tattoos stating that they were ‘born to fist.'

This season, in a jolly pandemonium of tire marks, road signs and paint splashes, and bananas aplenty models walked down with headbands declaring ‘I love black cock.'

Backstage, when I enquired about his yen for driving, roadworks and pee-pee (all at once, a rare skill), he simply said, in his inimitable coolness, “I know, I feel so 1992!” There you go. Undecipherable Bernhard logic. In addition to the feeling of being in a rave in London in the '90s, there was subtle yet total control in the cuts of the clothes: draped jackets, pleated shorts, simple overalls and intricate knits quietly but surely validated Wilhelm as a designer rather than a party boy. “Believe it or not, there are some very complicated pieces in there – which people tend not to notice because of all the colors,” Willhelm said. Keep the colors Bernhard, Paris needs them!

Photos: Imaxtree