Forget the pink pearls and lighter-than-air Givenchy angels of last season. In this collection, Riccardo is offering something a little darker, a little spikier (literally).

Upon entering the private mansion where the presentation is always held, I was welcomed by a) peach juice and b) models wearing nose rings the size of their face and earrings so heavy they have to be held together by an invisible headband.

The theme was the 1920s. Think ample, sheer blouses with trompe l’oeil collars, ultra-wide pants, and slinky dark dresses to the floor–it all looked tailor-made for Rooney Mara’s hotly anticipated Oscar red carpet turn. Riccardo seemed to reference himself throughout the show, with his trademark stars, subtly outlined in black beads embroidered on a black dress; or a reinterpretation of his beloved peacock blazers, this time in snake-skin, composed of individually sewn scales. Those were often embellished with metal spikes, outlining one’s spine, as a continuation of last ready-to-wear’s detailing.

There was an urban vibe too–rampant, chunky zippers on chiffon dresses, a wife-beater inspired top, and a vintage basketball in the décor brought the high-end garments a tad closer to real life.

So which look should Rooney wear to the Oscars? (I mean, she has to, right?)

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