Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.
PARIS–Underneath a rain soaked plastic tent on the grounds of the historical Hôtel des Invalides (Napoleon’s tomb), Riccardo Tisci presented his seventh menswear collection for Givenchy. He left behind the wild prints of the past two seasons–like spring’s ubiquitous bird of paradise–to showcase his signatures silhouettes: sharp slim fitted single-breasted suits and the sportswear elements, like the baseball jacket and the sweatshirt that’s now become a signature.
Tisci’s childhood obsession with Americana shone through in stars and stripes that adorned loose fit XXL workout sweatshirts and on striped sweaters. Surely these cotton shirts and sweatshirts with embroidered metal stars will be bestsellers at retail come next fall. And no Givenchy men’s collection is without the pleated skort he showed at his first menswear show. This time it came striped in black and red, in black gabardine, or in denim.
Designers must reinforce their signature looks and do so with a firm and uncompromising grip. Here Mr. Tisci did not disappoint in providing his customers with a range of choices to mix into their wardrobes: the double breasted knee length coat in heavy wool; the red and black striped polos, and the tan leather sweatshirt with embroidered navy stars around the neck.
I am not sure how the Minotaur-inspired crystal nose rings fit into the realm of Americana but looking from afar, they were a shiny distraction to the fine luxury coats and suits.
There was something more mechanical and much less sensual about this show than Mr. Tisci’s previous seasons. What’s different now, I think, is perhaps that there is less risk taking as Tisci gains a firm footing in menswear.