Long Nguyen is the co-founder and style director of Flaunt.
PARIS–“The fabrics are specially made in mills in Italy where there is still an appreciation for craftsmanship,” said Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin’s temporary showroom on the Seine as we stood before a navy wool jacket reinforced with neoprene at the shoulders.
Tailoring has always been the base of Lanvin’s menswear since the first collection in 2005 but in this season’s spectacular collection Ossendrijver fused tailoring with technological innovations and sportswear elements to make the clothes right for the moment.
With classical music blaring over the soundtrack interrupted at times by loud beats of drums, Lanvin’s fall men’s collection combined tremendous research in fabrics with precise cuts. An ice blue wool single-breasted suit with patches of inserted neoprene emphasized the sharp lines of the cutting pattern. On close inspection at the showroom, metal staples were visible along the surface of a coat. Techniques in the service of fashion–there is nothing more convincing at this moment in any men’s fashion collection.
Red, mustard, dark teal green, and ice blue were injected into a black and charcoal palette. Stand out pieces included the charcoal coat with hidden buttons and the wool, laminated leather navy and black trench coat. I wasn’t sure how the three striped looks fit into the collection.
While a lot of work and research went into the clothes, the collection seemed nonchalant rather than forced–you couldn’t see the effort.