LONDON–Acne was the last show of a packed Sunday of London fashion week, and the fruity delicious cocktail offered to me by a lovely young guy wearing an all-black outfit (which included shorts, black knee socks, and black shoes), went down in about three seconds flat. If I could have pushed it via IV, I would have.
Perhaps that line of thinking got me focused on medical stuff, but this Acne collection looked like it could have walked straight out of an orthopedic unit. The pants were shown with girdle-like belts that sort of reminded me of those back support garments that movers wear. Some whiplash neck braces popped up, too, and there were a lot of flesh-toned garments reminiscent of ACE-bandages. But all very avant garde.
Officially, Jonny Johansson was inspired by three artists known for pushing the boundaries: André Kertész, Hans Bellmer, and Hanneline Rogeberg. Johansson has been slowly moving Acne out of its denim niche, and this collection should help that. He played with fabric, keeping it pretty stiff, except for pants, which were either close to the body or slouchy. And speaking of pants, Acne is trying to bring back the super low-rise pant. You heard it here first.
The collection was actually pretty slick and badass, particularly when set to a soundtrack of New Order’s “Blue Monday.” Pops of green and construction zone orange kept it from getting too serious, and the sleek shiny pants and coats were super modern. And speaking of badass, Florence Welch was sitting front row, and even fought the crowd with everyone else to stay for the backstage party and more of those fruity drinks. Luckily no one got hurt or needed medical attention.