One thing you can usually expect from Alexandre Herchcovitch is color, and lots of it. Though this season the Brazilian designer went the opposite route with a gilded and woodsy palette that resembled a forest-based fairy tale--a stab at Fern Gully fashion if you may. The commercially avant-garde visionary—usually a fan of patterns and prints—shifted his focus towards sharp silhouettes and a play on textures, mixing marigold patents with demure lace and neoprene with gold leather.
It was an architectural hodgepodge of equal parts femininity (we dare say that the lace pieces were kind of Valentino-y) and fluidly engineered basics—like the opening look for example: a suede overcoat with encapsulating sleeves that were romantically offset by a tailored notched collar.
The makeup too was paired down--this time a natural look instead of the uncanny lipstick choices of seasons past. Herchcovitch proved that he can still make a strong performance without stagey gimmicks—to the clothes’ benefit.