Damn does Joseph Altuzarra knows how to make a great jacket. The outerwear at Altuzarra’s fall 2012 show–from expertly tailored cropped sailor pea coats with the subtlest bow at the back to longer knee length more substantial shearling lined toggle coats to leather printed numbers with massive fur collars–was an easy standout. But I have a feeling critics will be praising this collection as among the best of the week–at least I think it belongs up there.
Altuzarra is a relative newcomer to the scene but he made his entrance with Carine Roitfeld’s blessing and a lot of buzz. For a lot of designers, buzz fades after a couple of seasons, but Altuzarra has built on that buzz, slowly, steadily, and after a CFDA win, he really stepped into the spotlight with this confident collection. There was a Gypsy theme that ran throughout: The runway was a maze set in a big open gallery space with area carpets strewn about the old wooden floorboards; belly dancer sashes of bells were draped at the waists and along the hems of dresses and skirts, and wrapped around the waist like obis so models jingled as they strutted. It was Gypsy meets military then, as structured jackets with shiny brass buttons were layered over knits and printed pants. I especially loved the sweaters (maybe because they looked a bit Carven-esque and I love Carven)–like the printed ones worn over sharp white collared shirts and the ones adorned with embroidered strips of mirrors and little red puff balls (yes this actually looks good despite my description) and paired with flared skirts. To add another layer of drama, models wore serious over the knee patent leather lace up stiletto boots.
Are you drooling over those jackets yet?