MILAN–Fashion industry people are not exactly the touchy feely type but at Dolce & Gabbana‘s Fall 2012 show everyone had to get very…intimate with each other. Apparently the house had decided to institute a new system which required each invite to be scanned. It didn’t go over so well. The bottlenecking was so bad I felt like I was in a mosh pit, squished between one Elle editor’s boob and another editor’s shoulder and so close to one Italian gentleman I could seriously count all his nose hairs.
But once I was successfully scanned and inside, the chaos quickly dissipated. There were still crowds of people–and we mean crowds: the homegrown Sicilian label is clearly the most sought after show ticket for the Milanese. But the floral garland chandeliers, dim lighting, and orchestra music set the tone for a more romantic and antiquated affair: Baroque and Rococo elements–models stepped through a gold-leafed Baroque picture frame–dominated the collection.
The first set of looks to come out were almost all black, offset by ornate lace gold trim on the hem of a cape, the sleeves of a dress or at the neckline. Soon the runway exploded in voluminous white frills–the kind you find on Victorian bloomers: There were white frilly blouses, skirts, dresses and yes, bloomers.
And just when we thought the show would be all black, white, and gold, florals came onto the runway. But they weren’t bold or colorful, like so many of the blooms we’ve seen so far: They were muted, and worn-in looking, and, as far as we could tell, done in needlepoint. There were floral high-waisted underpants (a Dolce signature), a short jumper, blouses, and dresses.
No gilded lilies here, that’s for sure.