Lana Del Rey may have been playing on the sound system during Doo.Ri’s Fall 2012 show but that was about the only nod to anything that could be descried as “trendy.” And that’s a good thing because like all of Doo.Ri’s collections the focus was on the designer’s masterful draping and fit rather than the season’s “it” styles.
Backstage at her Fall 2012 show, Chung offered a helpful analogy. “Doo.Ri is like Butoh,” the designer said, referring to the avant-garde Japanese modern dance style. “It’s based on these really slow movements. There is just such a poetic way that these dancers gesture, and I aim to do the same thing with fabric.”
Leaving all focus on the elegant motion of Chung’s signature “parachute” material (a very lightweight jersey), the models’ hair was slicked back into tight buns that wouldn’t look out of place at the School of American Ballet. As these Butoh ballerinas glided down the runway in form-fitting bodysuits, easy pull-on dresses, and languid high-waisted wide leg trousers, Chung also tried her hand at more structured tailoring (a neoprene cutaway blazer) and, more successfully, with knits, like a draped chunky waffle sweater and a pullover with jersey sleeves.
The closing look was a billowing black-over-nude bonded jersey gown that used laser cutting to masterful trompe l’oeil effect, offering a graphic counterpoint to all the sinuous drapes. As the fabric filled with air, the volume expanded as if breathing deeply, which was the perfect look to encapsulate the collection: Graceful, dynamic and unmistakably Doo.Ri.