It was weird to walk into the Lexington Avenue armory and see a straightforward runway set for Marc by Marc Jacobs–no evidence was left of Rachel Feinstein’s magical set for Marc Jacobs’ show the night before. A the same time it made Marc Jacobs’ show feel that much more magical and fleeting.
Jacobs’ collection for his contemporary line, Marc by Marc, made much less of an impact than his RTW collection–no ginormous brightly colored fur Jamiroquai hats here–but the clothes were wearable (and comfortable looking!) and hipster friendly. Many of the models were styled a la Jenna Lyons with thick framed glasses wearing Daria-esque loose day dresses in vibrant prints. Blazers and knits were worn over knee-length pleated school girl skirts (these were not of the slutty cheerleader variety).
There was a severe militaristic bent as models wore flat heavy combat like boots or sneakers (male models sported captains hat) and walked at a fast clip with blank faces to Public Image Ltd.’s “This Is What You Want…This Is What You Get,” which played over and over.
The Marc by Marc devotee should find plenty to lust after for fall. I especially liked a bright red sweatsuit look–and kind of wanted to be wearing it as soon as I saw it. Soft pants! But more practically, there was a great maroon and grey coat with a fur hood (on Daphne Groenevald) and some shiny lame dresses at the end to liven up a pretty somber palette.