Moschino never strays far from their playful, somewhat gaudy style–and that’s precisely why we love the brand. Last season, it was all about the matador and for Fall 2012, designer Rossella Jardini further developed the theme of the bullfighter–though this season it had more of a Western slant.
Matador hats were replaced by black cowboy hats strapped tightly around the models’ chins and worn low over the eyes a la the bad guy in an old Western. The clothes, however, remained truer to last season’s matador: ornate blazers in black, red and gold–some with Spanish embroidery–and fitted trousers. The trousers–or leggings, really–were color-blocked in a way that recalled both Mondrian and, what we can only guess is Moschino’s favorite decade, the ’80s. Speaking of the ’80s…Jardini is trying make the fanny pack happen again, styling many of her looks with quilted coin purses and wallets worn on a chain at the waist. It’s a chic take on the 80s staple but we’re still not entirely sold on the idea.
The show could clearly be divided into two parts–the tougher, more masculine looks were topped with cowboy hats, while the more feminine, ladylike ensembles were finished off with a voluminous black bow tied around an equally voluminous bouffant. These looks consisted mostly of dresscoats and skirt suits in bold red, yellow and, the color we can’t get away from this season: purple. Towards the end there was a great set of monochromatic dresses and skirt suits, which recalled vintage Chanel, though Jardini made it all her own with a hint of a hint of gold and, of course, the chunky bling.