Overheard last night backstage at the Nomia presentation at The Box at Lincoln Center at 6:53 P.M.: “Girls, keep your outfits on—we’re going to do it again!” chirps designer Yara Flinn, as a couple of models with blunt ponytails who’ve just glided down a mini runway shed their sleek silk carapaces. “Sorry,” she says, turning to us. “I’m totally the crazy mom right now.”
In keeping with her arty reference points, Flinn, who for spring built her collection around Georgia O’Keeffe, took inspiration from installation artist Dan Flavin’s fluorescent light fixtures. “Last season was the first time I used color,” said the designer clad in head-to-toe black of her work in a desert bloom color palette. “This season I was like, ‘I’m going to go out completely.”
Flinn’s experimentation with fuchsia and cobalt had shades of the maximalist color play that’s been afoot since Jil Sander made neon “in”, but what felt fresh was the way she incorporated vibrant pops like a sash or color inset panel against olive drab into her signature tailoring and drapes for a juxtaposition between bright and dull textures. In the blink-and-you-miss-it world of runway work, you could forgive the models their confusion, but we were glad Flinn’s two-time- in-an-hour-presentation-slot format allowed another spin.