“I was just trying to make it feel lucid and bright and optimistic and vivid without relying on color,” Rachel Comey said of her fall 2012 collection. “I was really focusing on mood–I don’t have a specific narrative or a decade.” And it’s true she didn’t rely on color. Save for some bright bursts of poppy on a to-die-for funnel neck coat and a neon pink printed dress, the collection featured a lot of black, grey and white looks instead of Comey’s usual prints–she relied on texture to create variation. Some of the jackets and dresses seemed made in an almost trash bag-like material–not that the dresses looked trashy, of course, while others were in brocade or laser-cut leather.
Optimism for Comey looks streamlined and pared down: Boxy cropped tops in hole-punched black leather over tailored trousers, sweaters belted over loose-fitting pencil skirts that came past the knee, luxe funnel neck sweaters, and soft watercolor prints on dresses with vaguely ’60s silhouettes. The streamlined silhouettes recalled those couture shapes we keep hearing about since Raf Simons presented that remarkable spring 2011 collection for Jil Sander.
The only thing I couldn’t figure out was what was going on with the models’ feet. Not their shoes, of course–Rachel Comey’s shoes are always awesome (and platform creepers are still happening). But at first I thought the models had little tattooed dots on the tops of their feet. And then I realized it was clear socks with dots. “Those socks are a collaboration that we did with Hansel from Basel and she works with this filament yarn that’s clear with a little shine,” Comey explained. “I think they came out cool.” Me too.