While watching the Rag & Bone men’s presentation, in the industrial setting that is Marine and Aviation building on Pier 57, I couldn’t help but feel like the hand dealt to designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright isn’t exactly fair. They were one in a group of several designers that focused on heritage and made it the trend in menswear. Now that everyone is doing it, or has done it at this point, what is poor Rag & Bone to do?
Adding to this conundrum is the fact that the brand is now so very big it’s hard to see it as the same (denim) company that gave us all herringboners back in the mid-aughts. Their strategy seems to be a to try a little of everything, and the result was a collection more divided than decided: Striped woolens were covered by drastic examples of greatcoats, tuxedo pants with red stripes, slick blazers with leather collars and a bloodspattered gradient that went from black to red and finally a tapestry jacquard jacket and vest. If the latter, along with the doomed, black and blue ikat dyed prints, felt out there, it might be for the best. These could be shots in the dark, wild reaches, for a brand that is asking itself some important questions.