PARIS–A print of suits here (of the playing cards variety), a glittery bow there, and if you look close–there was even a tiny parrot who flitted about, perching at the hip or neckline of a dress.
Mathilde Castello Branco took a playful approach to her debut collection for Azzaro (she succeeds Vanessa Seward). The Lanvin alum was inspired by Marisa Berenson in the classic 1975 Stanbley Kubrick period piece Barry Lyndon. Using the sensuality of Berenson’s character as a jumping off point, Castello Branco showed undoubtedly sexy evening wear in draped jersey and satin with sheer and crystal elements–this is Azzaro, after all, whose slinky dresses were favored by Raquel Welch and Sophia Loren in the ’70s–but she never let it get too sexy or too serious. A black satin cocktail dress with a sweetheart bust had a sheer sleeves with cuffs printed with aces, spades, hearts and diamonds. A long-sleeved black mini had a bow cut out in sheer and covered in tiny crystals at the back. A sense of humor is good in fashion.
“I don’t want fashion to be only for women or only to please men. I want them both to be happy,” designer Mathilde Castello Branco told WWD upon the announcement of her appointment at Azzaro. I think she’s off to a good start. Now to get these dresses on some starlets…