The Mugler hype has died down a bit, although creative director Nicola Formichetti is still a master at creating it–this season he allowed several websites access to his atelier as he prepped for the show and answered questions along the way from readers. That kind of accessibility is rare from a fashion house and refreshing. “I did not want it to be an elitist of secretive process,” Formichetti said in the line sheets of his show, which also streamed live. “I wanted everyone to have the opportunity to be involved…Fashion seemed a bit ‘warmer’ in the past, more personal and not so removed. I wanted to see whether we could have some of that warmth again.”
But that Lady Gaga buzz has certainly faded. She wasn’t there last night and neither was Azealia Banks, Formichetti’s newest muse (sadface). I was hoping, at least, to hear “212″ on the runway but Formichetti had something quite different and not at all pop in mind.
For fall 2012, Formichetti and head womenswear designer Sebastien Peigne went quite literal in referencing Mugler‘s archives. The collection was an homage to Mugler’s 1997 insect collection which was expanded upon to include “the idea of the Japanese warrior and the ‘maximal minimalism’ of the music of Ryuichi Sakamoto,” who provided the soundtrack for the show. Last night’s far less flashy, celebrity-less show allowed for a stronger focus on the fashion, which is a good thing, I think. Whereas in the past two seasons that Formichetti has served as creative director he’s put his models on an elevated stage (remember that first one with trees that Lady Gaga waltzed around?), last night models walked in intricate patterns on a big open floor–it was more intimate. The clothes were more fashion-focused too–which is not to say they were anymore wearable for the average working woman–but the laser cut fringe, the peplum, the strong shoulders and body conscious shapes were drawn directly from Mugler’s famed “Les Insectes” collection, with a touch of today seen on skin tight moto-style pant suits. Those bees from the original Mugler collection were interpreted in a sleeker, slightly less literal way, with structured hoods rather than bug eye glasses and antennae. The Mugler woman “might sting, bite or scratch this season,” the show notes read. And maybe she’s got more bite without Gaga.
And because we couldn’t resist, here’s the original Mugler Les Insectes show. Thank you internet.