Long Nguyen is the co-founder and style director of Flaunt.
PARIS--Looking at the set for Yohji Yamamoto's fall 2012 show, a rectangle of red steel scaffolding in the courtyard of the Lycée Carnot, you might have expected another complexly constructed collection--as the designer is wont to do. This was not the case. The three red jersey dresses that opened the show composed a different vocabulary for Yamamoto. These looks were more fitted to the body. Combined with an asymmetrical silhouette, it's a new design element. A black jersey dress with a leg-revealing split up the front was yet another example of Yamamoto's shift towards sexier looks, which began about a year ago. It looked like an Angelina Jolie Oscar moment to me. The familiar Yamamoto shapes were there, too: wool cape/military trenches, black gabardine jackets and short pants comprised the designer's classic, oversized, asexual silhouette. A stand out look was the navy wool hooded trench/cape with big buttoned lapels worn over a sexy little red corset dress. The beauty of this show was how comfortable Mr. Yamamoto was with working around his signature cuts--the big, often shape-less coats, the gabardine jackets and cropped pants and the asymmetrical dresses. He let them flow freely instead of over-draping and over-working.