There was really only one person we could send to Reykjavik for Iceland’s third annual fashion festival—our fearless and oft fashion-challenged contributor Jo Piazza who is no longer allowed in most fashion weeks south of the Arctic Circle and has a predilection for pickled fish. After she spent just a few hours at the two-day festival of eleven emerging Icelandic designers the country welcomed dear Jo with open arms, soft Icelandic wool and tales of magic.

According to Jo, here’s what you need to go into the Reykjavik Fashion Festival like an insider.